Elevation: 434 ft
GPS: 41.3641, -72.5639
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Jim O'Brien on Feb 17, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson

Description

While CT is not especially known for it's rock climbing (other then the fact that modern climbing basically started in this state), it's a known fact among locals that the state is littered with boulders, pretty much from corner to corner (maybe except the NE). From the Traprock basalt bouldering in the central part of the state, to the gorgeous fine grey gneiss boulders and caves in the Southeast, to the Western lands loaded with larger grained gniess, schist, and even some marble boulders, to the granite strewn coastline there's climbing on almost every type of rock imaginable (no limestone that I know of yet). If you can't find a bouldering area in your town or the one next to you, you probably just haven't looked hard enough!

A little tip to those who are in the business of hunting these great gifts... 12,000 years ago the glaciers flowed from the NW to the SE diagonally across CT. As a result of this event, and a good general rule, most all bouldering (except traprock) are located on steep South Eastern facing slopes above swamps or ponds. The other tip is that many of the boulders I've found have been along old fault lines... geeze how the hell does one figure that out you might ask?? Here ya go... this is the CT Geology Map for Google Earth! Neat stuff huh? Lastly, there's the online maps, and honestly Google Sucks for this, so next time you're looking to surf around and see if you can find some boulders flip over to Bing Maps and use the Bird's Eye feature. This will allow you to rotate the camera to look at hills from various angle, most notable is the SE aspect!

One last tidbit, since this IS Connecticut, it's likely the amazing new boulder you are scoping is likely on private property or somewhere where climbing is prohibited (think water company property). Maybe, maybe not? Do you really know for sure? If you've got a question about an area reach out to the Access Fund and ask for help! They can help with research and provide guidance on how best to handle any situations that you may come across.

So without further adieu, here's a choice selection of tasty legal bouldering in our fine little state!

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Location: CT Bouldering Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at CT Bouldering

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 23
New Speedway Boogie
Boulder
V5 6C R
 6
Vultures in Paradise
TR, Boulder
V5+ 6C+
 4
Frenchy
Boulder
V6 7A
 8
The Resolution
Boulder
V6 7A
 22
Feel the Bern
Boulder
V6 7A
 7
Kaleidoscope
Boulder
V6-7 7A+
 17
Crimp line on Main Roof
Boulder
V6-7 7A+
 3
Steep & Deep
Boulder
V7 7A+
 24
Frankenstein's Lab
Boulder
V7 7A+
 4
Fancy Schmancy Direct
Boulder
V8- 7B
 3
The Surgeon
Boulder
V8 7B
 15
Weathermen
Boulder
V8 7B
 6
Full Circle
Boulder
V8+ 7B+
 5
De Mak Mak
Boulder
V9 7C
 6
Always at Fight Weight
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
New Speedway Boogie Bald Rock Basin > … > W Side > King Boulder
 23
V3 6A Boulder
Vultures in Paradise Bald Rock Basin > … > W Side > Colossus Boulder
 6
V5 6C R TR, Boulder
Frenchy Nehantic State… > Keeny Rd Boulders > Balancing Rock
 4
V5+ 6C+ Boulder
The Resolution Killingworth > Fat Man's Squeeze
 8
V6 7A Boulder
Feel the Bern Naugatuck State… > Clinton Rd Boulder
 22
V6 7A Boulder
Kaleidoscope Mianus Park > Old Mill Lane Boulder…
 7
V6 7A Boulder
Crimp line on Main Roof Samp Mortar / M… > Samp Mortar
 17
V6-7 7A+ Boulder
Steep & Deep Mattatuck State… > D&D Cave
 3
V6-7 7A+ Boulder
Frankenstein's Lab Woodbridge Land… > Frankenrock
 24
V7 7A+ Boulder
Fancy Schmancy Direct Sleeping Giant > Fancy Schmancy
 4
V7 7A+ Boulder
The Surgeon Mystic Areas > Stoddard Hill SP
 3
V8- 7B Boulder
Weathermen Killingworth > Chatfield Weather Caves
 15
V8 7B Boulder
Full Circle Mystic Areas > Stoddard Hill SP
 6
V8 7B Boulder
De Mak Mak Killingworth > Fat Man's Squeeze
 5
V8+ 7B+ Boulder
Always at Fight Weight Westwoods (Cock… > Bunny Boulder Area > Bunny Boulder
 6
V9 7C Boulder
More Classic Climbs in CT Bouldering »

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