Elevation: 987 ft
GPS: 41.86619, -73.09793
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Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Jul 9, 2018 · Updates
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Description

Burr Pond State Park in Torrington is completely littered with several hundred huge boulders of world-class pink granitic gneiss. The abutting Paugnut State Forest and Sunnybrook State Park combine into over 2,400 acres to explore.  The rock is bullet solid, well featured, and fine-to-medium grain that has great friction but won’t excessively shred your skin.  The highest quality boulders are towards the southwestern end of Paugnut SF.

Slim to zero information available on historical beta (pre-2018, if it exists). Climbing is on State Forest and State Park land with no specific prohibitions against climbing, and has been confirmed as legal with Torrington Police.  There are multiple parking and access routes, see individual zones for access details.

Burr Pond State park itself has ample parking, bathrooms, small beach area, picnic areas, canoe and kayak rentals, boat ramp.  The pond and beach can get crowded in the summer, but the crowds tend to stay closer to the pond.  There is a water fountain in the picnic area closest to the main parking area.

Some areas of these woods, and especially some of the steep slopes, are closer in character to the wilderness in rural NH than what you’ll see in the rest of CT, and trails are poorly marked or nonexistent.  Bring orienteering skills, GPS and/or paper map & compass.  Very active during hunting season, wear orange and use caution.



Getting There

Route 8 to exit 46. Ample parking at the two  parking lots off of Burr Mountain Road - make the left at main entrance for beach areas and stay straight for another parking lot with boat ramp. Parking is free with CT license plates any day, and free for everyone on weekdays.  Weekend parking is $15 per vehicle for out-of-state (subject to change for 2019)

Other parking areas to access the park are:

- Space for up to 16 vehicles at parking area for the Sue Grossman Still River Greenway - Winsted Road at the bottom of Buttrick Road, corner of Harris Road.  Cross Winsted Road at the crosswalk and follow Buttrick Road uphill into the forest.  No fee.

- Space for up to 4-6 vehicles at the northern end of Guerdat Road, about 650 feet after you enter State Forest land and the pavement ends.  Only recommended for 4x4 vehicles, pickup trucks or SUV’s.  Space for 1 low ground clearance vehicle on the shoulder at the end of the pavement.  No fee.

- Space for 4-6 vehicles on Starks Road at the north side of the park, west end of the pond.  Shorter route to the BOB boulder.  No fee.

127 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Burr Pond State Park / Paugnut State Forest

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 4
Elf on a Shelf
Boulder
V0 4
 3
Five Star Man
Boulder
V0-1 4+
 3
Snakecharmer
Boulder
V1 5
 3
Double arete
Boulder
V1 5
 4
Light Pink
Boulder
V1 5
 3
Dr Swango
Boulder
V1+ 5
 4
Soul Sofa
Boulder
V1-2 5
 5
Black bear tango
Boulder
V2 5+
 4
Half Parade
Boulder
V3 6A
 4
Salamander Town
Boulder
V3 6A
 3
Still Moving Through The Pain
Boulder
V4 6B
 4
Unnamed
Boulder
V9 7C
 3
Romance Bloody Romance
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Elf on a Shelf Pink Granite Ma… > Gneiss pink crack
 4
V0 4 Boulder
Five Star Man Powerlinezzz Boulder
 3
V0 4 Boulder
Snakecharmer Laurel Queen Boulder
 3
V0-1 4+ Boulder
Double arete Welcome to the Terror…
 3
V1 5 Boulder
Light Pink Pink Granite Ma… > Gneiss pink crack
 4
V1 5 Boulder
Dr Swango Powerlinezzz Boulder
 3
V1 5 Boulder
Soul Sofa Motocross Valley Dark…
 4
V1+ 5 Boulder
Black bear tango Motocross Valley Dark…
 5
V1-2 5 Boulder
Half Parade Laurel Queen Boulder
 4
V2 5+ Boulder
Salamander Town Motocross Valley Dark…
 4
V3 6A Boulder
Still Moving Through The Pain Powerlinezzz Boulder
 3
V3 6A Boulder
Unnamed Motocross Valley Dark…
 4
V4 6B Boulder
Romance Bloody Romance Boulder Over Burr (Bob)
 3
V9 7C Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Burr Pond State Park / Paugnut State Forest »

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