Elevation: 8,941 ft
GPS: 38.9936, -105.93
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Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 19, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description

This is a separate section of Colorado, since you, the user of MountainProject.com, have asked for it. To help you find all that your icy heart desires, look here.

Though not organized by town or city, this section is organized geographically. Here, you will find the subset of climbing done with crampons & ice tools on at least some bits of ice.

In this Colorado medium, you will find amazing beauty, ethereal sculptures created by nature, and a different peace than when you don sticky rubber and dab fingers into your chalkbag. You will dig deep, you will find ascents unique to each passage, and you may find a reward for balancing mind, body, and respect for the cold, natural world.

Those of you drawn to this aspect of the sport will search far and wide for some new, undiscovered dribble of the frozen variety. You will tramp all day based upon a narrow set of topographical lines on a map, drive hours based upon a rumor, drag half your weight in gear up miles of unpacked trails just looking for that next line. You'll call friends, call friends of friends, squeeze climbing shop employees for conditions, and scan websites for updates on climbs. Hopefully, here you will find something useful, consider adding routes to the database, update conditions for your fellow ice climber, and contribute to this small but growing database. Please do not take offense to those who seek to share...for we all love this medium...it is a passion.

For those of you out there who long for the day when no one else but you and your partner were out there whacking away, please remember when this was your new found focus. Also, understand by adding to this information, we spread folks out to allow a better experience for all.

So, here find your information on areas like Ouray, Lake City, Rifle, Vail, Mt. Lincoln, Wolf Creek Pass, Telluride, Glenwood Canyon, Clear Creek Canyon, Big Thompson Canyon Ice, St. Vrain ice, Colorado Springs, Durango, Silverton, Redstone, Coal Creek, Officer's Gulch, Parachute, Royal Gorge, Grand Junction, Gunnison, Rocky Mountain National Park and, maybe some day, Willow Lakes (thanks!, George). You will find lines from quick, ice-bouldering sessions to all day affairs, from 12 to 1500 feet, from roadside to backcountry.

For the exploring types, there are still ice climbs to be done out there...even depicted in this database. There are even rumors of Poudre Canyon ice.

There will be climbs that have been done where it is unlikely that someone will post it here due to lack of legal access, promises of secrecy, and fading in aging memory banks. For those, you'll just have to root around a bit or do it the old fashion way, earn it.

In really moist winters, amazing lines will pop up all over the place, even in predominantly rock climbing areas! So, keep the mind open, the eyes on alert, and the imagination in gear.

At the moment, this is a work in progress to reorganize this database for the subset who seek out the cold.... Please be patient.

Getting There

To get there, you will search far and near, high and low. You will drive, hike, scramble, and toil towards your goal. Approaches will vary from 1 minute to 1 day.

Resources

Quick link to most recent CO ice/mixed conditions reports.

Current Weather shows some actual weather and temperatures throughout Colorado.

Weather

You can check out the weather through NOAA and enter the city of choice.

Guidebooks/Other Info

Consider:
Jack Roberts' Colorado Ice and Colorado Ice Second Edition Vol. 1
Cameron Burn's Colorado Ice Climber's Guide
Charlie Fowler's San Juan Ice
Jack Hunt's Life by the Drop
Ben Bruestle's The Ripper, Climbing in Colorado's Wet Mountains
Vince Anderson's foldout Ouray Ice Park ice guide
Bill MacTiernan's older Ouray Ice
Glenn Randall's inspiring Vertigo Games
Richard Rossiter's Rocky Mountain National Park, High Peaks
Bernard Gillett's Rocky Mountain National Park & Rocky Mountain National Park, The High Peaks.

Ice Parks

Many of you have climbed at or known of the non-profit Ouray Ice Park in the Uncompaghre Gorge. This helped create the win-win for climbers & locals with the revival of a winter economy for Ouray. Some of you have climbed on some of the fledgling, farmed, ice routes in Boulder Canyon before the days when ice aficienados attempted to create an ice park in that location. Today, there is a growing movement to create additional ice parks through the state, like the Lake City Ice Park. Who knows what the future holds?

One note, please do not ice farm within national parks.

Webcams

You may find this webcam helpful to look at conditions: cotrip.org/roadConditions.htm. Click on the camera icons.

1,185 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: CO Ice & Mixed Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at CO Ice & Mixed

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4- R
 121
All Mixed Up
Trad, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
WI4
 160
Stairway to Heaven
Trad, Ice 7 pitches
WI5-
 147
Rigid Designator
Trad, Ice
WI4+ M4-5
 155
Skylight
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI1 M1 Mod. Snow
 105
Dragon's Tail Couloir
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
WI5 M6 R
 112
Ames Ice Hose
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI4 M4
 84
Alexander's Chimney
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
WI4
 78
The Ribbon
Trad, Ice 4 pitches
Steep Snow
 86
Skywalker Couloir
Snow
WI4-5
 131
Whorehouse Hoses
Ice 3 pitches
WI5+
 71
Bridalveil Falls
Trad, Ice 3 pitches
WI4
 155
Pick o' the Vic
Trad, TR, Ice
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2
 175
Dreamweaver
Trad, Mixed, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2 M2-3 Mod. Snow
 92
The Notch Couloir
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow
 196
Kiener's Route
Trad, Snow, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
All Mixed Up RMNP - Mixed/Ice > … > Glacier Gorge > Thatchtop Mt (SE aspect)
 121
WI4- R Trad, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
Stairway to Heaven Silverton > Eureka
 160
WI4 Trad, Ice 7 pitches
Rigid Designator Vail Ice > Rigid Designator Amph…
 147
WI5- Trad, Ice
Skylight Ouray (Ice/Mixed) > Camp Bird Rd
 155
WI4+ M4-5 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Dragon's Tail Couloir RMNP - Mixed/Ice > … > Emerald Lake /… > Flattop Mtn - S side
 105
WI1 M1 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Ames Ice Hose Telluride > Ames Wall
 112
WI5 M6 R Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Alexander's Chimney RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 84
WI4 M4 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
The Ribbon Ouray (Ice/Mixed) > Camp Bird Rd
 78
WI4 Trad, Ice 4 pitches
Skywalker Couloir Indian Peaks &… > Arapahoe Peaks
 86
Steep Snow Snow
Whorehouse Hoses Silverton > Eureka
 131
WI4-5 Ice 3 pitches
Bridalveil Falls Telluride > Bridalveil area
 71
WI5+ Trad, Ice 3 pitches
Pick o' the Vic Ouray (Ice/Mixed) > Uncompahgre Gor… > Alcove/Pic of the Vic…
 155
WI4 Trad, TR, Ice
Dreamweaver RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 175
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2 Trad, Mixed, Alpine
The Notch Couloir RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 92
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2 M2-3 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Kiener's Route RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 196
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in CO Ice & Mixed »

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