Idaho Springs Water Wheel Climbing

Everyone and their mother driving up and down I-70 and most of Idaho Springs will see you. Traffic speed will be affected.

After we rappeled the route, the police showed up and waited for us to recross the river. The naiveté attitude goes a long way and will save you from being thrown in the paddy wagon. They couldn't help but share in the stoke; however, it is on private property and considered trespassing, so be warned.

This is mellow and fun abstract Ice at WI-3+ with great stances for screws and rests. The crux is pulling over the top which can be thin and dodgy from the running water underneath.

The only solid anchor is a pine 20 feet back from the ledge. So, have a lot of webbing or use the ropes as an extended anchor and masterpoint to belay your second for a quick and dirty.

There's no way that this is a first ascent, but without info for now, we dubbed it "Reverse Phychology". Eds. This has been climbed surreptitiously since at least the 1970s. At one point, there was discussion about opening it up for climbing with a charge as part of an ice park. Risk of damage to the water wheel outweighed the benefits of such an endeavor. Please consider NOT climbing it.

Gear: double ropes, 6-7 screws, runners.