Whitehorse Ledge Climbing

Whitehorse Ledge is a huge chunk of granite that is host to a wide variety of climbing styles from face climbs to cracks to of course slabs. The cliff is known for its stellar slab climbing. Often bold and always what you think of when you think slab. Routes like Standard Route (5.5), Interloper (5.10c), and Sliding Board (5.7) set the standard in New England for slab climbing.

As you follow the cliff south, it gets progressively steeper and steeper until you get to the south buttress a collection of cracks and face climbs that deserves much more attention. Here the gems are climbs like the classic link up Hotter Than Hell (5.9) to Inferno (5.8), Atlantis (5.10b), and a host of killer exposed mostly bolted (but not sport bolted)face climbs.

The variety at Whitehorse makes it hard to include everything. For example, the routes are of all varieties from short crack climbs to 1000+ft smooth slabs. Some routes eat up gear while others run out entire pitches all the way to the anchor.

Best thing to do is find a climb that suits you and get after it. Climbing on this cliff, rich with history, variety and personality will help you learn the skills you need to climb anywhere you please.

The south buttress is a prime area to climb in the colder months due to its southern exposure.