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West Crack (aka Star Wars)
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3 from 486
votes
Routes in Lower Peanuts
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Air Guitar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Aspenleaf Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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B.A.T.E. Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Black Pearl S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Blows Against the Empire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chaucer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cornered, straight up variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Criller T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Direct Start to Your Basic Layback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Do or Do Not T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Double Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Easy Off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Faith, Hope, and Charity T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Fickle Finger of Eight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Forbidden Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Home Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Let's Jet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Narrow Gate, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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No Visible Means of Support T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Nova (aka Jawa?) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Off The Cuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Peanuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pretender, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Right Escape T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sacred and the Profane, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Scorpions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shield, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Sickle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Star Track T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strolling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Tracer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trouble And Strife T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whiskey Gala T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Wired T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Young, Blonde, and Easy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Your Basic Lieback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | FRA: Jim Erickson, Henry Barber, tandem solo, 1973, (solo P2 K. Donald, et al., 1977?) |
| Page Views: | 26,529 total · 98/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is an EXCELLENT 2 pitch or one long pitch up the beautiful Lower Peanuts Wall. Scramble to the far right and up onto the first ledge (lots of loose talus...be careful). Find a large, obtuse corner just below a perfect handcrack in a steep left-facing dihedral (many obtuse corners so make sure you see the obvious handcrack above, some of these other corners have scary pro and are much harder).
P1. Climb the corner with variable crack and fingers at top to large loose ledge under beautiful hand crack (obvious), 5.7.
P2. Jam the hand crack for 40 feet and mantle (crux) onto small ledge, continue up V-slot with thin hands another 25 feet to small ledge....turn small roof into short V-slot that takes you to the summit. Belay on summit ridge and descend west until you can scramble down into gully between Lower and Upper Peanuts.
P1. Climb the corner with variable crack and fingers at top to large loose ledge under beautiful hand crack (obvious), 5.7.
P2. Jam the hand crack for 40 feet and mantle (crux) onto small ledge, continue up V-slot with thin hands another 25 feet to small ledge....turn small roof into short V-slot that takes you to the summit. Belay on summit ridge and descend west until you can scramble down into gully between Lower and Upper Peanuts.
Protection
Take extra hand size cams in addition to standard rack. Aliens/TCUs helpful.... gear anchor(s).
History
From various sources, this is West Crack, noted in Pat Ament's 1975 High Over Boulder. The first recorded ascent was by Jim Erickson and Henry Barber done as a tandem free solo. In 1977, Kevin Donald and partners did the line, thinking it had not be done previously and named it for the famous movie, Star Wars.
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