Elevation: 6,959 ft
GPS: 48.5123, -120.654
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 914,419 total · 4,388/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 30, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Description

The Washington Pass area includes some spectacular and easily accessible alpine granite climbs, ranging in difficulty from the 5.4-rated South Arete of South Early Winter and to hard 5.12 climbs such as the Thin Red Line on Liberty Bell and the Tiger on M&M Wall. The area also has classic aid routes such as Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell.

The area is centered around Washington Pass on the North Cascades Highway, extending east to the Wine Spires and West to Liberty Bell and the Early Winter Spires. The quality of the rock is in general great and the summit views excellent. The best season for climbing here is late June through September. Snow and ice might still be present early in the season.

Getting There

From Twisp, drive north on Highway 20 through Mazama and up to Washington Pass. The highway takes a very obvious hairpin turn just below the peaks. The east faces are best approached by parking at the Washington Pass Overlook and ascending a trail starting across the road from the pullout. The west faces are more easily approached by driving a little further up Highway 20 and parking in the lot for the Blue Lake Trail. The climbers' trail breaks off left from the main Blue Lake trail as it bends right towards the lake.

112 Total Climbs

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Location: Washington Pass Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Washington Pass

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 233
South Arete
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 476
Beckey Route (SW Face)
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 449
Southwest Rib
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 84
Rapple Grapple
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 78
South Buttress
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 99
West Ridge
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 216
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-…
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 113
Northwest Face
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 93
East Face
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 83
East Face / Rebel Yell
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 80
Clean Break
Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
 128
Direct East Buttress
Trad, Aid, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2
 118
Liberty Crack
Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 263
The West Face
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 120
The Hitchhiker
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Arete Liberty Bell Group > S Early Winters Spire
 233
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Beckey Route (SW Face) Liberty Bell Group > Liberty Bell
 476
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Southwest Rib Liberty Bell Group > S Early Winters Spire
 449
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Rapple Grapple Liberty Bell Group > Liberty Bell
 84
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
South Buttress Cutthroat Peak
 78
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
West Ridge Silver Star & W… > Paisano Pinnacle
 99
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Bo… Liberty Bell Group > N Early Winter Spire
 216
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Northwest Face Liberty Bell Group > Liberty Bell
 113
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
East Face Liberty Bell Group > Lexington Tower
 93
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
East Face / Rebel Yell Silver Star & W… > Chianti Spire
 83
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Clean Break Silver Star & W… > Juno Tower
 80
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
Direct East Buttress Liberty Bell Group > S Early Winters Spire
 128
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 Trad, Aid, Alpine 9 pitches
Liberty Crack Liberty Bell Group > Liberty Bell
 118
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2 Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
The West Face Liberty Bell Group > N Early Winter Spire
 263
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Hitchhiker Liberty Bell Group > S Early Winters Spire
 120
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Washington Pass »

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