Elevation: 1,455 ft
GPS: 36.90506, -80.14423
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Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on Aug 23, 2006
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath

Welcome

Virginia is for lovers; and we climbers all love pulling on quality stone. Whether it is trad, mixed, sport, or bouldering that you are looking for, the Old Dominion State has plenty of rock that's just lookin' for love.

Check out Great Falls, Old Rag, Elizabeth Furnace, or Breaks Interstate for lots of fun and exciting Trad and TR routes. These fine areas, along with most of the other trad and TR areas in VA, are generally located in gorgeous parks and unique settings. Keep watch for many other areas that are being established across the Old Dominion.

Check out Iron GateBreaks Interstate or the recently re-opened Hidden Valley for some great sport routes, and Roanoke River Gorge for fun sport, mixed, and trad lines. Breaks is a sport climbing mecca-in-the-making with an untold number of potential routes to be developed and a great number recently established, high quality sandstone routes. Hidden Valley is a gorgeous sport climbing paradise in Appalachia boasting over 300 routes, just off of Interstate 81.

There is a vast amount of quality bouldering opportunities scattered across Virginia. All across the state you will find high quality boulder fields, great local areas, and small obscure spots throughout VA with many noteworthy fields found in the Southwestern corner. Mcafees Knob has tons of great bouldering and The Cascades is an up-and-coming favorite. For the best warm-weather bouldering in VA, and the largest established boulderfield in the state, be sure to visit Grayson Highlands State Park.

Guidebooks

-The Horst guide, "Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland" is a great reference for popular VA destinations like Old Rag and Great Falls.

-Grab the PATC Great Falls book for more routes and info on the area. Also available for sale at the visitor's center.
http://www.potomacmountainclub.org/content/view/83/115/

-Check out Graysonhighlandsbouldering for more photos, videos, problems, the GHSP Boudering Guidebook, bolderfield maps, park info and upcoming events.

-Also, if you want to download the GHSP bouldering guide on your iPhone or Android check out the Rakkup Mobile GHSP Guidebook App: rakkup.com/grayson-highland…

Local Climbing Organizations

If you are looking for specific area or access information for VA climbing, or to get involved or support climbing access and stewardship initiatives, contacting local climber organizations is the go-to option:

Mid Atlantic Climbers (MAC): "MAC is a non-profit organization dedicated to preserving access to climbing areas in the Mid-Atlantic region, while promoting responsible climbing and environmental stewardship. MAC serves as a liaison between the climbing community and land managers (park or private) for the crags in [the Maryland and eastern Virginia] region." The link to MAC's website can be found here: http://www.midatlanticclimbers.org 

Central Appalachia Climbers Coalition (CACC): A 501-C3 non-profit coalition focused on preserving and promoting climber access while hosting and supporting climber driven stewardship initiatives throughout the mountainous region of Central Appalachia. Here is a link to the CACC's Website.

5,957 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Virginia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 89
Periscope
Boulder
V4 6B
 75
Ranger Rick (Sit)
Boulder
V5 6C
 63
True Grit
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 98
Romeo's Ladder
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 78
Ass Cannibal
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 166
I Love Big Jugs
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 85
Melungian Brotherhood
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 87
Pulp Friction
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 129
Strawberry Fields
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 101
Fortis
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 92
Pure Energy
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 86
Big Balls
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 74
Lost Arrow
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 55
Oh My God Dihedral
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 153
Leading Should Feel This Way
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Periscope Southwest Virgi… > … > Contact Station… > Periscope Boulder
 89
V3 6A Boulder
Ranger Rick (Sit) Southwest Virgi… > … > Contact Station… > Ranger Rick Boulder
 75
V4 6B Boulder
True Grit Southwest Virgi… > … > Contact Station… > True Grit Boulder
 63
V5 6C Boulder
Romeo's Ladder DC & Northern V… > Great Falls > Romeo's Ladder
 98
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Ass Cannibal Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Buzzard Rocks
 78
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
I Love Big Jugs Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Talking Headwall
 166
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Melungian Brotherhood Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Buzzard Rocks
 85
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Pulp Friction Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Buzzard Rocks
 87
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Strawberry Fields Shenandoah & NW… > … > Old Rag > Reflector Oven
 129
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Fortis Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Talking Headwall
 101
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pure Energy Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Talking Headwall
 92
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Big Balls Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Talking Headwall
 86
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Lost Arrow DC & Northern V… > Great Falls > Aid Box
 74
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Oh My God Dihedral Shenandoah & NW… > … > Old Rag > Middle God's Area-Left
 55
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Leading Should Feel This Way Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Talking Headwall
 153
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
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