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University Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in University Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Critical Mass S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Le Pumping Bull T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Room With A View S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Skinwalker, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	White Punks on Rope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Elevation:	6,363 ft
GPS:	38.60548, -105.21994 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	8,329 total · 56/month
Shared By:	Monomaniac on Dec 22, 2010
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Private Property Details

This cliff sits on private property. The crag was "closed" by the land owner at one time, but the land has since changed hands. The current land owner's view on climbing access is unknown.

Per K McG: this crag is on private property. The parceling and sale of lots on Dilley Ranch, which used to own University Wall, has created an unfortunate situation. University Wall now is split into 3 parts, each sitting on a different owner’s lot. The left 1/3 (northernmost) is on a huge piece of undeveloped land. The owner is not interested in splitting off any portion of it. The middle 1/3 is owned by reasonable people, but they do not own access to the bottom of the wall from either side. The righthand 1/3 (westernmost) is owned by people who have vowed to shoot trespassers. It is not worth it to try to climb here. Please stay away.

Description

This proud cliff was once a prime destination for Shelf's top climbers, hosting an astounding collection of stellar lines. Development began here in the summer of 1987, and culminated in Darryl Roth's historic 1989 ascent of The Skinwalker, at the time Shelf's hardest free climb. An unfortunate indiscretion by a visiting climber caused the local land owner to close access to the crag, and as a result, these brilliant climbs have tragically drifted into obscurity.

Though the crag only features a modest number of routes, the harder lines are among the very highest quality routes of their grade's at Shelf. Of particular interest is Roth's masterpiece, which rivals The Example for the title of Shelf's best 5.13, and would warrant classic status at any climbing area in the country. Other stellar routes include Le Pumping Bull, The Sabbatical, Critical Mass, and Mr. Toad's Wild Ride. The mid-level routes here are not exceptional and probaby not worth the grueling, 45-minute approach and mandatory river crossings. Most do not have anchors, feature impressive runouts, and require supplemental trad gear.

Routes L--> R:

1. Unknown #1 5.10?, bolts to chain anchor
2. Unknown #2 5.10?, bolts to chain anchor

Break

3. Bad Intuition, 5.10c? bolts & gear, no anchor?

Break

4. Room With a View, 5.11a, 3 bolts, no anchor
5. Crowded House, 5.12a, bolts, no anchor? Begins on ledge directly above #4
6. Sorority Girls, 5.11+, bolts & gear, no anchor?
7. The Sabbatical, 5.12d?, 5 bolts, lower from last bolt (beefy cold shut)
8. Le Pumping Bull, 5.12b, 9 bolts, no anchor (or 8 bolts, finish on #9's anchor)
9. The Skinwalker, 5.13b, 8 cold shuts, 2 bolt anchor

Break

10. Unknown #3 5.11/12?, red bolts, 2 bolt anchor (2nd chain anchor 40' above 1st anchor)
11. White Punks on Rope, 5.10c, bolts & gear, no anchor (move left to #10's 2nd anchor)

Break

12. Pocket Rocket, 5.11+?, gear & 3 bolts?, no anchor?
13. Critical Mass, 5.13a?, 9 bolts, no anchor?

Break

14. Mr. Toad's Wild Ride, 5.12-?, 6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor?
15. One Tree Hill, 5.12-?, 5 bolts?, no anchor? (use #14's anchor?)

Break

16. Unknown #4, 5.8/9?, 5 bolts to chain anchor (on east face of large boulder below #15)

Break

17. Que Sera Sera, 5.12-?, 4 bolts & gear? no anchor?

Additional Resources

This crag was included in Mark Van Horn's 1990 Shelf Road Rock Guide. Copies are currently available from Chessler, the Denver Public Library or CSprings Public Library. This book is still impressively accurate despite its age. PM for additional information.