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Routes in West Face - Right Side
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Acrobat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Angle Iron Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coffin Nail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crimes of Passion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dos Equis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Edge, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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El Camino Real T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fingergrip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fingertip Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Fingertrip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hangover, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Jensen's Jaunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Last Judgment T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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On the Road T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pearly Gate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pigs in Bondage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Point Blank T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Shit for Brains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slab, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Ten Years After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Toe Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Traitor Horn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Turbo Flange T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Unknown? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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West Face Grand Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Jim Smith, Auther Johnson and M. Holton August 1938 |
| Page Views: | 44,910 total · 216/month |
| Shared By: | Dpurf on Feb 23, 2006 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Traitor Horn is an area classic, and has a great exposed crux when you pull on to the 'True Horn'!
P1 & 2 - Climb the first 2 pitches of Jensen's Jaunt (5.6) until you can head right just below the headwall to a protruding horn of rock. This is the 'Traitor Horn'. Traverse up and right to a small niche and belay. Try to protect this traverse well for your second, as the traversing moves can be delicate.
P3 - Climb up and over to the right. There will be 2 pitons just before the move onto the 'True Horn' (crux). The crack directly above with the pitons is a different route, and instead move to the right onto the horn. Then up, up, and over to a good belay spot with a tree growing out of a crack. If your second is not strong or is scared to move to the horn, make sure the rope is in the crack and not out away from it. I know this sounds wrong, but if your 2nd falls they will be hanging in air and will be hard to get them back onto the rock.
P4 is long up a low angle slab to the top.
You can also start the climb with Coffin Nail (5.8) or On the Road (5.10c). Also El Camino Real (5.10a) is another do way to go.
P1 & 2 - Climb the first 2 pitches of Jensen's Jaunt (5.6) until you can head right just below the headwall to a protruding horn of rock. This is the 'Traitor Horn'. Traverse up and right to a small niche and belay. Try to protect this traverse well for your second, as the traversing moves can be delicate.
P3 - Climb up and over to the right. There will be 2 pitons just before the move onto the 'True Horn' (crux). The crack directly above with the pitons is a different route, and instead move to the right onto the horn. Then up, up, and over to a good belay spot with a tree growing out of a crack. If your second is not strong or is scared to move to the horn, make sure the rope is in the crack and not out away from it. I know this sounds wrong, but if your 2nd falls they will be hanging in air and will be hard to get them back onto the rock.
P4 is long up a low angle slab to the top.
You can also start the climb with Coffin Nail (5.8) or On the Road (5.10c). Also El Camino Real (5.10a) is another do way to go.
Photos
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