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The Kor Route "Free"
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in The Rainbow Wall
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Big Payback, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Birdhunter Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brown Recluse T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Desert Solitaire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+ |
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Desert Solitaire (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Kor Route "Free", The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Original Route, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Paiute Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 1200 ft (364 m), 10 pitches |
| FA: | Fa: Layton Kor, Sibylle Hetchel, Allison Sheets, April 1988, FFA: December 2020 |
| Page Views: | 1,703 total · 62/month |
| Shared By: | Adventure Punk on Dec 9, 2020 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This route was originally named "Corporate Takeover." However, in the book and internet forums, it was referred to as "The Kor Route," so I decided it was best to leave it like that. This route is a lot of fun and features well-protected cruxes. However, the easier pitches run across very delicate climbing making the route very interesting, and a little bold. I don't know if it is quite PG:13, but a couple of pitches feel a little heads up.
P1: Climb up a 5.4 gully past a large tree/bush and make a 5.7 move around another small tree. Chimney to a ledge and climb around the corner to a set of anchor bolts.
P2: Climb up straight up the slab that follows the broken crack, clip one bolt, 5.10d. Then climb up and left to a flake. After the flake, climb the face to a second bolt and then climb left and pull the roof 5.10a. Follow the awesome crack to a fat ledge or stop at the intermediary anchors 5.7.
P3: Climb up the awesome splitter crack for 30 ft, 5.10c. before the hollow horn flake, climb left onto the face 10ft to a bolt. Follow the bolt line under the arch, this is the crux, 5.12a. Clip the last bolt then continue to climb 10ft left to the end of the arch. Place a blue totem in the crack, then continue straight left for 10ft on easy but delicate climbingh to a set of anchors. 6 or 7 bolts?
P4: Climb up the face to a bolt. Finesse your way through some scary holds to a second bolt then climb your way up a scary tower/dihedral thing 5.9/10. Climb left and search the face for a hidden star drive bolt. Climb left up a crack to a ledge, then climb up a large crack to a set of anchors on a small ledge. PG-13ish
P5: The second crux. Climb your way up the delicate face that follows the crack. Follow the bolts to a ledge and a set of anchors 5.11d ish. The only cams you need is a #2 and a #1. 8 bolts I think but bring some extra draws.
P6: Slab your way along the path of least resistance to a fat ledge where you can build a gear anchor. 5.9. There is also a huge tree on the ledge.
P7-P10: Walk 300ft left along the ledge to a corner system and choose your own adventure up 5.5-5.7 chossy climbing to the summit
Decent: Rap Bird Hunter Buttress rappel route.
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