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Routes in The Gallery
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A Day in the Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Buck's Muscle World S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Gelatin Pooch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gift, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Glitz, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gridlock S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gridlock Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Minstrel in the Gallery S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nothing Shocking S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pump First, Pay Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Range of Motion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Running Amuck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sissy Traverse S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Social Disorder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sport Climbing is Neither S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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That Goode Dude Climb S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Trad Climbing is Both T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Where the Down Boys Go S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Who Made Who S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Yaak Crack S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Boone Speed, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 28,432 total · 105/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Collins on Jan 1, 2001 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
One of the best and most famous hard-12 sport climbs in North America. It's been called 12c for years, but most of the current guidebooks now rate it 12d. This is an awesome, steep, strenuous route, involving thuggish climbing to a delicate crux at the very end.
Much of the climbing in the lower section would probably clock in at about 12a/b. The crux, involving a technical high step and reach to an elusive pebble, is not that hard in of itself, but the precision required for this move is usually hard to come by after the pumpy climbing below. For those who project in this grade range, the key to the redpoint is to ruthlessly wire the lower section so that one can arrive at the crux fresh.
On a sunny winter day, one can enjoyably spend the afternoon watching numerous people cruising the lower section only to be spit off by the crux, again and again and again.
Much of the climbing in the lower section would probably clock in at about 12a/b. The crux, involving a technical high step and reach to an elusive pebble, is not that hard in of itself, but the precision required for this move is usually hard to come by after the pumpy climbing below. For those who project in this grade range, the key to the redpoint is to ruthlessly wire the lower section so that one can arrive at the crux fresh.
On a sunny winter day, one can enjoyably spend the afternoon watching numerous people cruising the lower section only to be spit off by the crux, again and again and again.
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