All Locations > Alabama > Palisades Park

The Flake Face

Name: The Flake Face
Rating: 2.0

5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British

Routes in Palisades Park

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Little Help From My Friends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	April Fools TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Boobs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Box Lunch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Bubba T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Buckets T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Burly Girls TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Captain Crunch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Captain Hook TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Cashmere T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Christmas Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Corner Arete, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Dirty Dancing TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Elephant Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Etheral Cathedral T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Exit Stage Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Face Of A Phantom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Fire Tower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Five Nine Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Flake Face, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Flake, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Foton's Finish T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hard Days Night TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Jumpin' Jeff Flash T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Kiddie Crack T,TR V0+ 4+
	Kodiak Arrest TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Lady Fingers T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Lead This? TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Loose Stitches T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Marginal Monster (M&M) T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mickey's Mantle T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Micro Gulley TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mister Green Jeans T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	My Little Pocket Frog T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Nameless Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Night of the climbing dead TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Nine to Five T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Nose, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Oh My Achin' Head T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Pharaoh's Revenge T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Pickin Pockets T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Pillar T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Posey's Pass T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Post Nasal Drip T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	R&D T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Snake Bit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Spinnin' Wheels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Squat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Steeples T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Street Fighting Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Stumbling Block T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Three's A Charm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Tim's Route T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tinkerbell TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Trivial Pursuit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unnamed 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	USS Comfort Arete T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Warp Factor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Whip Me, Beat Me T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	TR, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,754 total · 13/month
Shared By:	Geissler Golding on Jun 3, 2012
Admins:	saxfiend, Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The Flake Face begins on thin and reachy face moves which become progressively tougher through the middle of the bulge. It ends with a nuanced and balanced mantle-ish move over the bulge. Once you gain the top of the bulge/shield and can move comfortably, the climb is essentially complete.

This route feels harder than 5.11 until you unlock its mystery crux in the center of the shield/bulge. Definitely demands some accuracy and a bit of crimp strength.

Location

Start about 4 feet left of Dirty Dancing. You should not have to use any part of the original Flake route (i.e. left facing side-pulls)

Protection

Top Rope. The new Dixie Cragger suggests using the anchors at the top of Dirty Dancing but in practice I would suggest using the anchors for The Flake instead (there will be a bit of rope rub on the bulge if you peel off)