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Routes in Black Velvet Wall
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American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Epi Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Johnny Come Lately S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jugs on Drugs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Malicious Mischief T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prince of Darkness T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sourpuss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Yellow Brick Road T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 185 ft (56 m) |
| FA: | Dan Goodwin, Joanne Urioste |
| Page Views: | 5,314 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Kuehl on Jan 11, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
A good climb with some wide climbing, sure to be added to the list of classic cragging routes in Black Velvet.
P1. 5.10+. 75'. Single .3-5 (optional extra 5)
Climb the clean wide crack, assisted by some crimps. This maxes out at 10a until the roof. Place a finger sized cam or 2 over the roof on the left side, and pull the roof (crux). All of the holds are trustworthy, and the gear is good. Good gear and jams to the bolted anchor.
P2. 5.10+, 110'. Single to 3, triples 4 and 5. Though the crack is wide, the climbing is not. The pitch is characterized by good cams, and liebacking. The longer the runouts the easier the climbing. Belay from a comfortable stance at a bolted belay.
A single 70m rope will get you to the first anchor of Overhanging Hangover, and then down. It is best to rack up at the base and scramble up to the start of the climb as you do not rappel back to that ledge.
P1. 5.10+. 75'. Single .3-5 (optional extra 5)
Climb the clean wide crack, assisted by some crimps. This maxes out at 10a until the roof. Place a finger sized cam or 2 over the roof on the left side, and pull the roof (crux). All of the holds are trustworthy, and the gear is good. Good gear and jams to the bolted anchor.
P2. 5.10+, 110'. Single to 3, triples 4 and 5. Though the crack is wide, the climbing is not. The pitch is characterized by good cams, and liebacking. The longer the runouts the easier the climbing. Belay from a comfortable stance at a bolted belay.
A single 70m rope will get you to the first anchor of Overhanging Hangover, and then down. It is best to rack up at the base and scramble up to the start of the climb as you do not rappel back to that ledge.
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