Connect with Facebook
The Fastest Gun
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.9 from 141
votes
Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
|
7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Ancient of Days T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Autumn Flare T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Certified Raw T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Discord T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Extreme Unction T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
|
|
FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
|
Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Gathering, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
God's Grace (Pure and Simple) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Gun Control T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Home Run Derby T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Howling, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
In Vivo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Junior Varsity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Karmic Kickback T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Keep Off Flake T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
|
|
Lex Luther T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
Macrobiotic T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Menace To Sobriety S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Mogster S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
P.T. Pillar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Pearly Gates T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Pentecostal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Psalm 32 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Shark Week T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Sharpening the Blade T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Smallville Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Smear Campaign T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
|
|
Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Summer Break T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Time Jumpers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Ukiah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Under the Influence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Verdon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Waterloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Geoff Smith and Dick Bushey, 1/77 (p.1 & 2) Jim Dunn, 1978 (p.3 & 4) |
| Page Views: | 26,733 total · 143/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Duca on Nov 10, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Jim Lawyer, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues
Details
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Description
As stated by Don Mellor in his comprehensive guidebook to the adirondacks: "Taken separately, each pitch of this route would be considered among Poke-O's best. Linked together they create an experience that seems too good to be in the East."
The Fastest Gun epitomizes all that climbing at Poke-O is about: In-your-face climbing from top to bottom with dizzying exposure, airy belay stances, and a short, but mandatory runout above small gear. This route is not only a classic Adirondack climb, but a route worthy of coast to coast notoriety.
Pitch 1:
Begin this route at a big right-facing flake with an off-width starting at about 15' off the ground. grunt your way up the layback flake, slam a #4 Camalot in the off-width and figure out how to get yourself to the top of the off-width below the first roof.
place a Camalot under the roof, undercling and jam your way around this strenuous section until some feet can be had off to your right. Take a quick rest, then finish up the jamming/layback section to the slung blocks. Step left and continue over to the left below the double crack system running vertically above you. (100')
Pitch 2:
Follow the seemingly endless twin cracks above you to a small roof. Pull this, then continue above the broken dike, climbing slightly to the left to a ledge. (140')
Pitch 3:
A bolt marks the third pitch. Climb off the ledge to a thin crack on your right. Pass the 1/4 inch bolt at a hard move, then place some small gear, and run it out (5.6ish, but heady) to the large left-facing corner capped by a roof. (160')
Pitch 4:
The roof move. A series of hard moves gets you to the base of the corner. Crank your way up and left over the roof past some loose flakes, and then climb up to the top of the cliff and anchor. (150')
Well done!
Photos
30 Comments