All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > French Joe Canyon

The Cloak Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Cloak

L › R R › L A › Z

	Engine of Ruin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Leafblower Symphony S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Planets Collide S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Quiet Earth S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Sombra's Shadow S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Talus Snail S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Visions in Dust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c

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Elevation:	5,874 ft
GPS:	31.81515, -110.40895 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	0 total · 0/month
Shared By:	drewp on Mar 12, 2023
Admins:	adrian montano, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

Description

Remote limestone sport crag up in the Whetstones. Mostly vertical. Named because it's somewhat across the way from the large limestone mountain labeled the Cape. It's also dark and spooky. This is a shady, north-facing cliff way back up the canyon. The cliff is reasonably tall, and pretty long, but there are a lot of featureless or otherwise unclimbable sections. Parts of the cliff are covered in a sheet of flowstone that is only an inch or so thick, not really ideal for climbing. There are bees around but they are not on this cliff in my experience because of the all-winter shade.

Shoulder seasons are best. I've seen it covered in thin ice in December. The shade means Sep-Nov and Mar-early May are best. After May the sun is high enough that it is too hot.

At present 7 lines + 3 closed projects, but I may not make it down here again, so I am posting it up. If you have questions about a line just ask. One is absolutely dangerous (should be obvious), which is why I am leaving projects off for now.

This is a special and unique place so I have been leery of posting it. Please travel lightly. In particular, do not stomp the spring on the approach. We have also avoided putting routes on the big seep, because it's awesome and the routes would suck. Hope it stays that way.

Getting There

Total time to get to the cliff from the highway is about 2 hrs. Not really a day trip from Tucson. Camping is shady and cold during the season.

Drive up the French Joe road. This takes 30 min - 1 hour depending on how much you care about your car. While there aren't any real roadin' cruxes, the road has lots of cobbles, and "it rattles your bones" as LB said. My 2wd car can do it but it has some clearance and it's a process. Clearance and 4x4 recommended, which will also let you drive all the way to the end of the road.

To access the cliff, continue up the wash for around 1 hr. You will never see the cliff until you are below it. l I suppose you could get lost but it would be hard. If you look at the GPS point first you'll be set. Early on (~10 min) there is a big right hand turn in the wash where the Cape comes into view. At some point (45 min), you will hit an obvious, vegetated spring [PLEASE DO NOT WALK ON THIS]. Bypass the spring to the left and catch a side drainage that will take you south, out of the wash and up to the cliff. The last bit up to the cliff is the hard part, there is some bouldering involved.

And one more thing, while it's tempting to stay late and walk out the wash in the dark, as JBak says, "snakes!"