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Routes in The Rainbow Wall
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Big Payback, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Birdhunter Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brown Recluse T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Desert Solitaire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+ |
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Desert Solitaire (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Kor Route "Free", The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Original Route, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Paiute Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sergeant Slaughter T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 1400 ft (424 m), 12 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Kevin Daniels, Tony Sartin, Dave Evans, April 1998 |
| Page Views: | 1,722 total · 58/month |
| Shared By: | Ian McEleney on Oct 5, 2020 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Not the Big Paycheck as it is in Handren's book. A real adventure climb. Expect some sand and looseness on every pitch. Pitch 3 had been attempted several times by Danny Meyers before the FA.
P1: 150' 5.7 Climb the first pitch of Sergeant Slaughter. The anchor is fixed nuts.
P2: 50' 4th Traverse right to the second (older) set of anchors.
P3: 150' 5.7 A2+ Climb the thin crack past a bolt and a rivet to a hanging stance. Boldness and sparing use of the hammer will keep this aesthetic-looking pitch from becoming a beat-out mess.
P4: 100' A3 Follow the crack up into a chimney past a loose block that looks like it could (and should) be trundled. A few bat hook moves help here. Bailing after this pitch could be annoying.
P5: 150' 5.9 A2 Start with some chimneying, then follow the roof way right, cleverly avoiding a loose block.
P6: 150' 5.8 A2 Follow the crack/corner, passing a fixed hex around 100'. Belay at a slopey ledge on left with one bolt, back it up with nuts, beaks, and small cams.
P7: 100' 5.8 C2 Frequent free climbing keeps the hammer in the bag and the rope moving faster on this one. There is one protection bolt and some moss. Finish on the spacious bivy ledge.
P8: 130' 5.9 A2 Free climb up and left until you can climb over the arching roof. There is a new-ish two bolt anchor on the right.
P9: 170' 5.9 C2 Pass an old anchor and another bolt before following the leaning crack to the right. A good pitch to wear free climbing shoes for.
P10: 180' 5.9 C2 Pull the roof and follow the corner/crack to a stance with one bolt in a wide chimney. Mostly free climbing.
P11: 60' 5.7 Finish up the chimney then cross a ledge to belay at the base of another chimney.
P12: 100' 5.8 Follow the clean-looking chimney to the top.
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