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Routes in The Wasteland
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Automatic Leg Spreader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Beast with Two Backs, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Beast, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Believe It S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Capuccino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Community Service S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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El Chapo S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Espresso S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Guilt Parade S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Gun Shy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Java Creek S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lady Luck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Never Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Nostalgie S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ruckus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Slacker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Slacker Direct S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Thieves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Vision Thing S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Pete Zoller, Phillip Benningfield |
| Page Views: | 13,190 total · 50/month |
| Shared By: | Pinklebear on Sep 12, 2001 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This venerable classic is many people's first 13a at Rifle, and has been a mega-classic since it went up in 1991.
This route is just right of Never Believe and climbs directly up the center of the blue-grey panel of water-sculpted rock in the middle of the Wasteland. It can be recognized by a high first bolt (generally stick clipped) and a series of perfect two and three finger pockets at the opening sequence. Constant traffic on this route has turned the footholds black -- almost to the point that you feel like you're smearing on marble. Nevertheless, the climbing on this line is great -- sustained, powerful and aesthetic.
Phillip Benningfield returned later to add "The Beast with Two Backs," which continues past the original anchors under the roof (RIP anchors—there's just a single bolt there now) via long moves to good holds in the ceiling. Bring four or five more draws for this, and finish on slabby white stone up on the headwall above the cave.
This route is just right of Never Believe and climbs directly up the center of the blue-grey panel of water-sculpted rock in the middle of the Wasteland. It can be recognized by a high first bolt (generally stick clipped) and a series of perfect two and three finger pockets at the opening sequence. Constant traffic on this route has turned the footholds black -- almost to the point that you feel like you're smearing on marble. Nevertheless, the climbing on this line is great -- sustained, powerful and aesthetic.
Phillip Benningfield returned later to add "The Beast with Two Backs," which continues past the original anchors under the roof (RIP anchors—there's just a single bolt there now) via long moves to good holds in the ceiling. Bring four or five more draws for this, and finish on slabby white stone up on the headwall above the cave.
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