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Routes in (s) Monkey Face
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Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Backbone, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Close Shave S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2 |
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East Face Start T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Monkey Farce T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Moving in Stereo S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Northwest Corner, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
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Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0 |
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Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Spank The Monkey (Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R |
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West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1 |
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West Face Crack (West Face P1) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 |
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West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Alan Watts and Ron Kauk |
| Page Views: | 16,413 total · 83/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 28, 2006 |
| Admins: | Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This mega line has got to be the most striking multi-pitch sport route in the country (if not the world). It's possible to start at the very base of the tower using the Sheer Trickery approach, but rumor has it Sheer Trickery is harder than the crux pitch of the Backbone (and considering the fire power of the FA group - Wolfgang Gullich, Ron Kauk, and Alan Watts - it's easy to believe).
The most expedient approach is to traverse the 5.6 choss band from below the start of Spank the Monkey. Once on the arete, you will likely be a bit nauseated by the exposure, so you might want to take it bolt to bolt the first time up. The crux pitch starts out pretty casual with some ultra-exposed and reachy 5.11 edging. After 4 bolts or so, the North Face flake crack splits out to the left. Get a good rest here, then tackle the first technical crux. It's possible to 'cheat' past this first crux by climbing on the left side of the arete, and reaching around the corner to clip. The bolt line is recommended for a pure ascent, but since you get a full recovery before the real crux, the left variation probably does little to affect the route's overall difficulty.
Another excellent rest on the left side of the arete allows you to depump for the final dynamic, airy and overhanging crux section: a rising traverse from the left arete to the right, up the widest part of the narrow face. There's no way to climb around this section! Once you reach the right arete the business is over, and a few easy moves lead to a no-hands rest and optional anchor.
The 3rd pitch goes at a terrifying 12a. If it were 12c, you would have the option of dogging it and working out the moves like on P2, but since its "only" 12a, you're pretty much obliged to go for the onsight, which is a tad spicy to say the least. This pitch starts out pretty steep with good holds, but gives way to some mossy slab climbing.
Once in the west cave, two exits are possible. The pure line begins with a jump to the first hold, and attacks a steep line of jugs straight above the backbone. Or you can always slink out the 11b Monkey Space exit to the left.
The crux pitch is probably the easiest 5.13 at Smith, but with all the exposure, you likely won't complain too much.
The most expedient approach is to traverse the 5.6 choss band from below the start of Spank the Monkey. Once on the arete, you will likely be a bit nauseated by the exposure, so you might want to take it bolt to bolt the first time up. The crux pitch starts out pretty casual with some ultra-exposed and reachy 5.11 edging. After 4 bolts or so, the North Face flake crack splits out to the left. Get a good rest here, then tackle the first technical crux. It's possible to 'cheat' past this first crux by climbing on the left side of the arete, and reaching around the corner to clip. The bolt line is recommended for a pure ascent, but since you get a full recovery before the real crux, the left variation probably does little to affect the route's overall difficulty.
Another excellent rest on the left side of the arete allows you to depump for the final dynamic, airy and overhanging crux section: a rising traverse from the left arete to the right, up the widest part of the narrow face. There's no way to climb around this section! Once you reach the right arete the business is over, and a few easy moves lead to a no-hands rest and optional anchor.
The 3rd pitch goes at a terrifying 12a. If it were 12c, you would have the option of dogging it and working out the moves like on P2, but since its "only" 12a, you're pretty much obliged to go for the onsight, which is a tad spicy to say the least. This pitch starts out pretty steep with good holds, but gives way to some mossy slab climbing.
Once in the west cave, two exits are possible. The pure line begins with a jump to the first hold, and attacks a steep line of jugs straight above the backbone. Or you can always slink out the 11b Monkey Space exit to the left.
The crux pitch is probably the easiest 5.13 at Smith, but with all the exposure, you likely won't complain too much.
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