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Routes in 2. Duet Area etc
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Add Libs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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All Day Sucker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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British Were Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Condemned Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Continuation of Rock Candy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 PG13 |
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Duet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Duet Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fall from Grace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Jawbreaker (not completely done) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3- |
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Light Brigade, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Lightning Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pops-Sick-Hill T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Raven Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Rodan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sam's Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Sam's Swan Song T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Sayonara T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Sextet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0 |
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Sinister Satisfaction T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slow and Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Bryan Delaney and Howard Peterson |
| Page Views: | 11,089 total · 58/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Jun 19, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Details
Description
Sticky Fingers is an awesome finger crack makes the first pitch a must do if you climb hard 5.10 cracks. The second pitch is a hard slab and I'm sure its fun for someone. OK, the second pitch is good;it just made me whimper.
I've listed this route as simply 5.10 because I've heard different reports on the grade from different sources. I felt like the crack was around 5.10b/c and the second pitch was hard 5.10d. However from that you may gather that I love finger cracks and don't do as well on hard slab climbs. So basically make sure you are a SOLID 5.10 climber.
Pitch 1: Climb the perfect finger crack as it heads up and right. There are a few thin cruxes along the way till you gain a pod of sorts where you can rest and then continue to a ledge on the right edge of the buttress. Fixed belay but you might want to back it up.
Pitch 2: Climb out left and clip a bolt. Then make challenging slabby moves left to a good stance (crux #1). Easier mantels get you to another bolt (I don't like the placement of this bolt because it could cause a bad swing for your second). After clipping the second bolt make a few though moves up and right to gain the third bolt (thank god). From here friction straight up making a really hard move to OK holds (crux #2) and better holds as you drag yourself on to the ledge.
One 60m rope stretcher rappel will get you back to the ground.
I've listed this route as simply 5.10 because I've heard different reports on the grade from different sources. I felt like the crack was around 5.10b/c and the second pitch was hard 5.10d. However from that you may gather that I love finger cracks and don't do as well on hard slab climbs. So basically make sure you are a SOLID 5.10 climber.
Pitch 1: Climb the perfect finger crack as it heads up and right. There are a few thin cruxes along the way till you gain a pod of sorts where you can rest and then continue to a ledge on the right edge of the buttress. Fixed belay but you might want to back it up.
Pitch 2: Climb out left and clip a bolt. Then make challenging slabby moves left to a good stance (crux #1). Easier mantels get you to another bolt (I don't like the placement of this bolt because it could cause a bad swing for your second). After clipping the second bolt make a few though moves up and right to gain the third bolt (thank god). From here friction straight up making a really hard move to OK holds (crux #2) and better holds as you drag yourself on to the ledge.
One 60m rope stretcher rappel will get you back to the ground.
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