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Southeast Buttress
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 3.8 from 1,738
votes
Routes in Southeast Slopes
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John Muir Route (The Mountaineer's Route) T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b PG13 |
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Southeast Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Wilts and Spencer Austin, 1943 |
| Page Views: | 254,866 total · 1,252/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Wilder on Jun 22, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures.
Details
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
You can really climb all over the Southeast Buttress. You get the most climbing if you start at it's lowest point, in the middle. Many people start up and to the right a little, which loses some vertical, and the first pitch over there isn't so good.
However you start, after 3 pitches, steadily increasing from 5.3 to 5.6, you'll probably be funneled into a chimney. It can get crowded here, and a backpack can be a real pain. Climb around to the left and it's smooth sailing however.
There are so many options, passing people is generally easy if you're competent at the grade, and there are usually people all over the face.
A spectacular climb not to be missed.
Summit Notes: On crowded days, do not ascend the summit block via the western 4th class chute. Leave that route for folks to descend. Instead when the true summit is in sight, continue climbing up the SE face(~5.5 slab) then hop across to the summit as the party ahead of you descends via the chute.
Descent: Stay high and left (climber's right) and follow the path of least resistance (3rd class, some exposure) to the base of the Eichhorn pinnacle. At that point you'll spot a climbers' trail that takes you back up to the notch that links to the signed 2nd class descent.
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