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South Face, Right
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.6 from 29
votes
Routes in Wolfs Head
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Brass Monkey T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Direct South Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Driese-Kehoe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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East Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fred Beckey's Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Green Dragon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Red Cloud T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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South Face, Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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South Face-Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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White Buffalo T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Wind Walker Traverse T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | George Esson & Jim Montgomery, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 10,984 total · 86/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Polan on Sep 20, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Approach as for Wolf's Head East Ridge. Look for a series of grassy ledges just to the LEFT of a dirty chimney system (not right, as the recent Bechtel guidebook states... one of many errors discovered in 4 short days climbing here). Scramble up the grassy ledges (I'd argue 4th class, not 3rd; some may wish a rope especially if grass is wet / slippery) to the broad, sloping ledge immediately below the knife edge of the East Ridge proper. From the top of the grassy ledges, head left and ascend a sloping ramp up and left to the base of a large right-facing corner (see Beta photo).
Climb the right-facing corner using a combination of jams, laybacks, and underclings - often strenuous, never desperate. The route goes in 3-4 short pitches, with 3 belays on downward-right sloping ledges. Pitch 3 has some large loose red-colored flakes that get your attention but are easily, if gingerly bypassed. In general, the rock is gorgeous, the stance is phenomenal, and this route clearly deserves more traffic to brush away a little lichen and grit. Once onto the East Ridge proper (having bypassed the knife edge portion), follow the East Ridge route to the summit and descend as described for that route. If you've just climbed this route, I would highly recommend simul-climbing the rest of the East Ridge, although rappelling the Beckey Route is an option for descent.
Climb the right-facing corner using a combination of jams, laybacks, and underclings - often strenuous, never desperate. The route goes in 3-4 short pitches, with 3 belays on downward-right sloping ledges. Pitch 3 has some large loose red-colored flakes that get your attention but are easily, if gingerly bypassed. In general, the rock is gorgeous, the stance is phenomenal, and this route clearly deserves more traffic to brush away a little lichen and grit. Once onto the East Ridge proper (having bypassed the knife edge portion), follow the East Ridge route to the summit and descend as described for that route. If you've just climbed this route, I would highly recommend simul-climbing the rest of the East Ridge, although rappelling the Beckey Route is an option for descent.
Location
- This description varies a bit from that in Bechtel's book and may represent a variation. He describes "a left-leaning, right facing flake/corner. This system is continuous and leads first hard left, then vertically toward the ridge" ... we climbed a vertical to just barely RIGHTward leaning right-facing corner ... excellent nonetheless!
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