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> Shannon Falls Wall
Skywalker
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.5 from 587
votes
Routes in Shannon Falls Wall
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19th nervous breakdown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Aladdin's Magic Lamp S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Austrom, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cafe Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cardhu Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Charlotte's Ride to the Sky T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dark Matter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Dicky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Friends and Family T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Interstellar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Jump to Light Speed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Klahanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Liftoff T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Local Boys Do Good T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Local Girls Are Bad T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Local Heroes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No bolts TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Say-Noth-Ka Arête S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Skywalker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Skywalker EPB T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spirit of Squamish, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Split Decision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Urine too Deep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Jeremy Frimer (2011) Parts of pitches 2 & 3: Dick Culbert & Mike Warr (1967) |
| Page Views: | 64,099 total · 450/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Roberts on Jul 3, 2011 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Something of a phenomenon, this route became immensely popular almost overnight. Seems to illustrate a deep-seated desire in the community for beginner routes lacking gear belays and runouts.
Pitch 1: Up a seepy crack or the slab beside it to a finger crack, then traverse right across a slab protected by two extremely close bolts and up a finger crack to the anchors. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch 2: "The Flume" - Wedge yourself in a compressed left-facing corner crack depressingly devoid of typical 5.8 bomber fingerlocks. 5.8, 25m.
Pitch 3: "The Fork" - A jug/flake pulling romp along the right of two splitting cracks, up to a thought-provoking move before the anchor. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch 4: "Skywalker" Traverse right along a juggy, slabby undercling. Exposed for the grade. 5.5, 20m.
Pitch 5: Romp upward over stumps past a fist-crack move, then race up an easy slab past four bolts. 5.4, 30m.
There are a series of harder variations, note the topo I've attached, drawn up by Mr. Frimer. I haven't tried any, but if this route is below your level I might recommend trying one of them as the upper pitches of Skywalker are a bit tame.
Proper PDF of the route can be found at jeremyfrimer.com/uploads/2/…
Pitch 1: Up a seepy crack or the slab beside it to a finger crack, then traverse right across a slab protected by two extremely close bolts and up a finger crack to the anchors. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch 2: "The Flume" - Wedge yourself in a compressed left-facing corner crack depressingly devoid of typical 5.8 bomber fingerlocks. 5.8, 25m.
Pitch 3: "The Fork" - A jug/flake pulling romp along the right of two splitting cracks, up to a thought-provoking move before the anchor. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch 4: "Skywalker" Traverse right along a juggy, slabby undercling. Exposed for the grade. 5.5, 20m.
Pitch 5: Romp upward over stumps past a fist-crack move, then race up an easy slab past four bolts. 5.4, 30m.
There are a series of harder variations, note the topo I've attached, drawn up by Mr. Frimer. I haven't tried any, but if this route is below your level I might recommend trying one of them as the upper pitches of Skywalker are a bit tame.
Proper PDF of the route can be found at jeremyfrimer.com/uploads/2/…
Location
Follow the trail to the right of Local Boys Slab, just past Magic Carpet Ride and Not Your Normal Nightmare. Easy to find, look for a bolt ten feet up one foot to the left of a crack. Walk off to the right (Shannon Pools to the left).
Protection
I didn't place a cam bigger than a .5 Camalot, but would recommend doubles in finger sizes. There are places for gear as big as a #4, but you'd be fine with cams to one inch and one set of nuts.
All fixed anchors, sometimes several? I guess to deal with the crowds that are already an issue.
All fixed anchors, sometimes several? I guess to deal with the crowds that are already an issue.
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