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Routes in Goat Wall
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Flyboys S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Goat's Beard Ice WI5 |
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Mazama Queen T WI3 M6 Steep Snow PG13 |
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Methow Inspiration Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prime Rib S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Promised Land T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1 |
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Restless Natives S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sisyphus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Larry Goldie and Scott Johnston |
| Page Views: | 20,744 total · 145/month |
| Shared By: | Skyeler Congdon on Jun 28, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | applewood, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Access Issue: Camping for Climbers in Mazama
Details
From the MVC:
The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.
From the USFS:
When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets.
Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.
The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.
From the USFS:
When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets.
Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.
Description
An enjoyable day with some great pitches on clean rock and a couple throw away pitches on decent rock. Expect Afternoon sun.
1: 5.7; 6 bolts; 100 ft
2: 5.9; 7 bolts; 100 ft (Easily linked with P1 with a 60)
3: 5.10b; unprotected 4th ramp out right, 10 bolts. 150 ft. Awesome.
4: Easy 5th. Pass a set of chains on the left; 2 bolt; 140 ft.
5: 5.8; 7 bolts; 100 ft
6: 5.11a; 8 bolts. Very thin, well protected crux. 80 ft.
7: 5.10a; 12 bolts; 160 ft.
8: 3rd class ledges.
9: 5.9; 10 bolts; 100 ft
10: 5.6; 7 bolts; 100 ft (link w/9).
Many parties will opt to descend after the 7th pitch as quality deteriorates.
***Raptors nest on the Diamond point buttress above. May-July. If you top at the treed ledge, please do not continue higher, and do not talk, walk around, or attempt to walk off during this Spring nesting season; leave as soon as possible.
According to a biologist "If the raptor notices you, and changes their behavior in any way, please start your descent"
Thanks! MVClimbers
1: 5.7; 6 bolts; 100 ft
2: 5.9; 7 bolts; 100 ft (Easily linked with P1 with a 60)
3: 5.10b; unprotected 4th ramp out right, 10 bolts. 150 ft. Awesome.
4: Easy 5th. Pass a set of chains on the left; 2 bolt; 140 ft.
5: 5.8; 7 bolts; 100 ft
6: 5.11a; 8 bolts. Very thin, well protected crux. 80 ft.
7: 5.10a; 12 bolts; 160 ft.
8: 3rd class ledges.
9: 5.9; 10 bolts; 100 ft
10: 5.6; 7 bolts; 100 ft (link w/9).
Many parties will opt to descend after the 7th pitch as quality deteriorates.
***Raptors nest on the Diamond point buttress above. May-July. If you top at the treed ledge, please do not continue higher, and do not talk, walk around, or attempt to walk off during this Spring nesting season; leave as soon as possible.
According to a biologist "If the raptor notices you, and changes their behavior in any way, please start your descent"
Thanks! MVClimbers
Location
The right (south) side of Goat Wall. Park at the BIG pullout 3 miles past the Mazama Store. Look for a trail just right of the yellow "curved road" sign. Do NOT approach from the Prime Rib trail (thats what we did and it sucked). A 20 minute approach.
Once close to the wall, look for a giant, solitary pine tree, go left up a climbers trail around the toe of a buttress, then back right up a ledgy ramp.
Once close to the wall, look for a giant, solitary pine tree, go left up a climbers trail around the toe of a buttress, then back right up a ledgy ramp.
Photos
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