To get to Shelf, travel to Canon City. From Boulder, it is fastest to go I-25 to Colorado Springs, then take the exit for Canon City (beware this is tough to spot - it is poorly marked, if you miss it, exit in the south part of town and travel west until you intersect CO Highway 115). Travel SW on CO 115 to US Hwy 50, then west about 10 miles to Canon City. In Canon City, take a right at the first light past the Wal-Mart (Dozier St), or take a right at the next light which is Reynolds. Travel north and the road will curve to the left and intersect Field (not Fields as Knapp says) Avenue.
Turn north on Field and travel on this weird two lane road for about five miles, when it joins up with Fremont County Road 9 via a 'Y' type intersection. From here, it is 9.4 miles to the entrance to Shelf Road, which is marked with a sign indicating as much.
There are two BLM-administered camping locations at Shelf Road. The lower area, Sand Gulch has 14 campsites and 1 group camping site. The upper area at The Banks has 11 campsites and 1 group camping site.
*Individual campsites are $7/night and accommodate 8-10 people. The group campsites are $14/night and accommodate up to 20 people.
*All sites should be booked at Recreation.gov. Do not expect to find a site without a reservation.
NEW as of March 2021: there is new Recreation.gov information and Bank campground updates (Rec.gov was moved last March). We encourage all prospective Shelf campers to use Rec.gov to reserve their sites. We want to encourage everyone to not rely on expecting a site when they arrive and instead to plan accordingly and book a site! Our campgrounds have been at capacity nearly every nice weather weekend, and people shouldn't just expect to find an available site and instead should reserve one.
Thanks,
Sean Reynolds, Outdoor Recreation Planner, Royal Gorge Field Office, 719-269-8500.
Just before you arrive at Shelf Road, you will pass Sand Gulch campground on your left, behind a red BLM gate. Close the gate as you pass through. This is quality, spacious camping and access to the Sand Gulch area, home to many moderates about a 15 minute walk from the campground. There is day use parking at the northwest end of the campground, and overflow parking at the north end, where the Freeform trail begins.
To access the Bank parking area and campground, continue down Shelf Road and it is on the left. The North End is reached by continuing straight down Shelf Road. Consult Knapp, Van Horn, and the R&I mini-guide for more details. We found some disagreement in route ratings, listings and general details between Knapp and Van Horn, but both books are well done and easy to follow.
Camping Restrictions
*Wood cutting is not permitted in this area. Please bring your own firewood.
Per Chris Oshiro: Red Canyon Cycles on 420 Main Street has climbing gear and is a great one stop shop for beta, beer, or a coffee.
Per Evan C: The Bean Pedaler on Main also sells climbing gear as well as coffee / breakfast burritos. It's more of a bike shop, but they do have a small climbing section as well.
Per Sally Jane E: Cafe Belay has climbing gear at 1707 Fremont Drive, in the strip mall in front of City Market.
Per courtney.vogt Higher Limits at 224 Main St. Per saracasey casey it is no longer open.
Connect with Facebook
Be courteous to others, pick up your trash, and leave the boom boxes at home. This is still public land and as climbers we need to resect the fact the others have equal right to visit an area like Shelf and not be appaled at our actions. Peace Jan 26, 2003
Boulder
Boulder, CO
No need to argue, just keep in mind the reality at Shelf:
If you go to Cactus Cliff on a weekend, you should fully expect a high density, semi-urban, fully nitwit sort of experience. I've been there with rampant dogs, kids playing boomboxes, overweight tattooed couples in relationship-ending arguments, guys drinking beer while actually on route... you name it.
Go to the Quarry Wall and you won't see another soul. Your dog will be free to roam at will. Or the far end of the Bank, or even the Gallery or Sand Gulch will offer some seclusion. Save Cactus for a weekday, or buck up and accept that this is public land and it is going to be crowded with people that have every right to do whatever low IQ stuff they may be doing.
The routes are just as good or better at the older crags anyway, and usually harder for the grade. Jan 22, 2008
Centennial, CO
Dog friendly? Often very hot, rattlesnakes, humans involved in dangerous activities that require their full attention. Sounds like a great place for loose dogs. Great idea. Here's a better idea. Let's get the county commissioners to pass an ordinance or law to prohibit dogs from the area. Anybody know how to start something like this? I'll help. Let's shoot for no dogs by 2009. I have a logo for our campaign: No K-9 by 2009! Jan 23, 2008
Centennial, CO
Lone Tree, CO
You may be really really good at keeping your dog tied to a tree with a five foot leash, but I know for a fact that you are the rarity.
I have a dog that I will bring to a crag ONLY if i know that they are both safe from rattlesnakes and cliffs, and will not pester others. Places like castlewood where there is no one around. Is it fun for the dog to have them drive in a car for 2.5 hours, be shackled to a tree for a full day while you climb, and then leashed back at camp as not to interfere with other campsites? I would rather leave them at home, but I have a wife who can watch our dog when I climb at Pact-us cliff. Jan 25, 2008
Unruly dog owners and their unruly dogs should definitely be checked, but should all dog owners be banned from bringing their dogs because of a few bad dogs(or owners)?
Personally I don't trust anyone that doesn't like dogs. There's just something amiss about a person who hates them! Also, dogs are not a fad, that is why they are domesticated animals(took hundreds even thousands of years of breeding to get where they are now). If anything, people are less used to dogs than ever before, and are AFFRAID!!! Perhaps people who are afraid of dogs shouldn't blame dog owners for their state of fear, but should go to therapy. Also, a barking dog is not necessarily mad or evil. It is most likely saying hello; if you were nice and said hello back, they'd probably shut up.
We'll be at shelf this weekend with at least 3 dogs...
If you have a problem, ask the owner to rope up their dogs... most would rather do that than piss someone off (but you have to ask).
P.S. If you kick my dog, I will most likely kick you.
P.P.S. Cactus Cliff has always been ridiculous(grid bolted to hell), regardless of the dogs. The damage that is there is caused by us, climbers, not dogs. May 2, 2008
A beach with climbing
On April, 26 2008 my husband and I climbed at Menses Prow. Several parties were already there with 5+ dogs belonging to multiple parties. Just before we reached the cliff 2 dogs approached and one promptly pissed right in the middle of the trail. Later while approacing the ledge for "Jumbo Pumping Love" I was overwhelmed by the smell of fresh dog poo which I had to step over in order to reach several climbs. The icing on the cake happened while belaying my husband on a climb near the main approach trail. Someone's stuff was sitting next to the climb (not in our way and not strewn about) and a dog rummaged through the gear, pulled out a sandwich and took off down the hill with it.
Irresponsible dog owners- you know who you are. Leave your pets at home unless you can keep them with you at all times and are willing to clean up their crap! May 23, 2008
Morrison, CO
As Ron Olson once profoundly said, "Foaming at the mouth does little to advance your argument"
How appropriate that it now serves this "discussion." Hilarious... Dec 9, 2008
Laramie, WY
trying to get to Sardinia
Keswick Cumbria.UK
Kearney, NE
Shelf is climbable year-round, has convenient camping, easy approaches, and hundreds of routes from easy to really hard (the bulk of which fall into the moderate range 5.8 to 5.11)....and yes many of them are "well" equipped...even a few cracks. Did I mention that many of the routes are really really good?
Given all that it's no surprise that Shelf is popular. It can be crowded, but often that's because people congregate on the classic moderates. It's not hard to find solitude if you want. Nov 10, 2009
Denver, CO
Never seen bolts on bolts, except at anchors (and I do appreciate more than one bolt at those locations).
There are a few bolted cracks, but only because only a nutter would want to place gear in that limestone.
Shelf has hundreds of routes spread across many different cliffs... but certain ones tend to attract more people than others. You can always find solitude, and the somewhat remote location with no major roads makes Shelf feel more tranquil than most sport destinations in CO. Going to Shelf on a November weekend focusing on 5.8-5.10 at Cactus Cliff then complaining about crowds is like going bouldering at the Gunks or Yosemite then complaining there are no trad routes.
Of course, if you don't like sport climbing, you probably won't like Shelf, which should go without saying. Nov 10, 2009
Keswick Cumbria.UK
Don't think this is true, Paul Ross. Instead of guessing that this area is lame without visiting, you should give it a try, dude! Some suggested classic Shelf lines with really great variation between routes:
1. The French are Here (12c)- old school classic with a cruxy rounded bulge.
2. Head Cheese (12d) - steep and powerful, relentless
3. Ejection Seat (12b/c) - powerful roof pulling on pinches
4. This is Your Brain (12d) - thin and technical
5. M&M (12a) - fantastic movement, never too hard but just in your face all the way
6. The Example (13a/b) - sick hard and thin
7. No Rest for the Wicked (12a/b) - thoughtful moves up an incipient crack/seam
Go do all these and then post back and tell us they were all the same! Nov 13, 2009
The routes you listed are all harder than 5.7 and probably not runout, so how could they be even remotely interesting? Nov 13, 2009
Keswick Cumbria.UK
Anyway, I love Shelf and can't wait to get back there! Great climbing! Nov 23, 2009
Morrison, CO
Fort Collins, CO
colorado springs co
Boulder, CO
1) what are the chances the campgrounds will be fully booked on Friday eve around 8pm?
2) is there water available?
3) is it still $4 a night?
4) picnic tables at the sites?
Any other tips I should know for camping there?
Thanks
Chris May 10, 2010
2) is there water available?
3) is it still 4$ a night?
4) picnic tables at the sites?
1 - if it was like last weekend there were only a couple of sites still available by 9pm (granted last weekend was the busiest i've seen in years) you should have a decent chance...
2 - No, bring your own
3 - Yes, for now...
4 - Yes
Other tips... bring your own wood unless you don't mind walking a ways to gather dead wood (it's still possible, but it keeps getting further and further from the sites).
Have fun! May 10, 2010
Snohomish, WA
Boulder, CO
Avon
Kearney, NE
mountainproject.com/v/gener…
Upon arrival at the Sand Gulch day parking area yesterday around 10:30 AM I noticed an active campfire in Site #6, right by a red Saab with Colorado plates, that was burning with flames visible. During the time that we were getting ready to head up to the crag, I checked and there was no one in or around the campsite, so I used some of the water that they had left on the table and put the fire out. It was obvious that no effort had been made to extinguish the fire.
Leaving an active fire in a campsite is inexcusable, and even more so during red flag fire conditions. We all need to be especially careful to take care of this area. Mar 21, 2011
Fort Collins, CO
Morrison, CO
Colorado Springs, CO
Kearney, NE
Unless the forecast is calling for an all-week rain event, you should be fine. Apr 24, 2011
Fort Collins, CO
Not actually found, but it stowed away in our pack and came home with us. It looks very similar to one of our helmets.
Contact me via Mountain Project, tell me where you lost it and what kind of helmet it is, and we'll figure out how I can get it back to you.
Sorry for the inconvenience.
Ivan Rezucha May 30, 2011
Colorado Springs, CO
Colorado Springs
Colorado Springs, CO
Cameron - You can get a TR on most lines at Shelf assuming you can lead up to the anchors first. There are quite a few 8s and some lower out there, just search the database here. If you are looking to scramble up to setup a TR, then Shelf is not going to be the best location for that as walking on the cliff tops is discouraged due to loose rocks that can be knocked off on climbers. Most anchors would be hard to reach from the cliff top anyway as they are generally located on the face. Have fun with the kiddos. Jun 23, 2011
Morrison, CO
It seems that the GBN, North Gym, & Damage Wall are safe for "fixed" draws. I wouldn't leave draws anywhere else. Good luck and let me know how it goes. Sep 19, 2011
Steamboat Springs, CO
Sunny crags and lots to be thankful for this Thanksgiving weekend. We even had chestnuts roasted on an open fire at the group campsite at Shelf Road. And then I lost my wedding ring, engagement ring, and a watch. They are all hooked together. Oh my goodness. I am freaking out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Has anyone found these? If you did, please let me know and I will give a full description, cash reward, and eternal gratitude. Call Liz at 303-642-7646 or email me at LizBrownMorgan@gmail.com. Nov 29, 2011
Muncie, IN
March is the Front Range's snowiest month. Most likely, you would get 60 degrees and sunny at Shelf in early March. But a couple feet of snow and temps near zero wouldn't be a surprise either. Jan 17, 2012
Kearney, NE
Lakewood, CO
Today I spoke to the Royal Gorge BLM office who runs the area, and camp fees have gone up. Individual sites as now $7 a night and group sites are $14 a night. Mar 1, 2012
Kearney, NE
For $10 you can buy as much scrap wood as you can stuff in your vehicle at the lumber mill north of Canon City. Just get there before they close at 6. Apr 21, 2012
Fort Collins, CO
It's prom season, and I've encountered many LARGE parties of local HS aged kids trashing the place.
It's not just a climbers only campground. Apr 24, 2012
Dumont
Colorado
yelp.com/biz/alfonsos-mexic… Oct 23, 2012
Westminster, Colorado
Today (13 March 2013), while climbing at the Piggy Bank, a member of our group came across a massive, loose rock at the top of the route between 2010A and Pig City Nights. He placed his hand on it, and it started to move quite easily and looked like it could tumble down to the base of those three climbs. We marked the base of the route with some chalk. When looking up from the base: the rock is located slightly behind a wall to the left side. Be careful out there. Mar 14, 2013
Boulder, CO
Catalina, AZ and Ilwaco, WA
Colorado Springs, CO
Jamestown, Colorado
Hit me up with the gear and area, and I will gladly return it to the owner! Jul 16, 2014
Colorado
Also, single sites are $8 now. At least the sticker told me so. Apr 13, 2015
Bozeman, MT
Las Vegas, NV
Golden, CO
Reward offerd. Contact esingleton.se@gmail.com if you find it! Jan 4, 2016
Colorado springs, CO
Please extinguish your fire when you leave your site! This Sunday morning, in the camping area beyond the gate that does not have designated sites, a group of guys left a smouldering log that caught fire after they left. The log was very large and about half of it was out of the fire pit. Thankfully we had enough extra water to put it out. There is plenty of dry grass in the area that could have caught fire if this log continued to burn.
If you know them, inform them about the fire hazard they left. It was a group of guys, some in their 30s, one of them had a grayish brown Sprinter van, and the other had a white van, from Boulder CO.
These guys were drunk & loud til 2am. Is that a norm at Shelf Rd?
Thanks Mar 7, 2016
Fucken Zion
ATZ an abundance of mortal shit/tpee is buried in YOUR lawn...place stinks.... Don't worry I'll stay out and head to Wyonothing or Flag before setting foot in Selfish Road again. Apr 26, 2016
Breckenridge, CO
Fucken Zion
Manitou Springs, Colorado
Buena Vista, Colorado
Milford, PA
Describe them, and I'll give em back happily.
Contact 3609109194. Nov 17, 2016
Denver, CO
Thanks! Oct 23, 2017
Denver, CO
- CLIMBERS BEWARE - MY DRAWS WERE STOLEN OFF GLUE SLIPPAGE
I left my draws up on this route starting with bolt 4 to begin the crux and through to the top. That's 8 draws. I hung them for project burns and for others to have fun. This was mid-Oct. Went back this past weekend Dec 1st and they were taken. I guess poaching draws still happens at Shelf. Watch out everyone! This route is 12b so all fingers point to someone who climbs the grade - or takes the time to steal by aiding a route. If anybody sees them, they are 7 BD Posiwire with replaced vari-width dogbones, and 1 two red carabiner tan colored, thin dogbone. All bolt sides had green tape marking them as mine. It'd be really swell if the person gave them back. Bad form, people!Needless to say, I won't be leaving gear on routes anymore and wish the best to those that still have gear up on Deeper Shade, The Example, etc. What's next, the perma-draws off Headcheese?! Dec 3, 2017
Colorado Springs, CO
Jackson, WY
On the Road
Chattanooga, TN
Too hot? I see the average high is 71 according to MP. That's nothing compared to the South. May 8, 2019
Woodland Park, CO
Burlington, Vermont
Broomfield, CO
Fraser, CO
Tx
If you are seeking shade in the AM hours, walls that are shady are The Freeform Wall at Sand Gulch, The North side of The Bank (Piggy Bank, Bank Rob Buttress, Beyond The Future, etc), and Cactus Cliff. Afternoon shade can be found on the opposite walls such as Cactus Rose. Jun 22, 2021
Denver, CO