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Sheer Lunacy
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British C1
Avg: 3.4 from 32
votes
Routes in Moonlight Buttress
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Looney Tunes 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+ |
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Lunar Ecstasy 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2+ |
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Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Moonlight Buttress (Free), The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Moonshadow T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sheer Lunacy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1 |
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Sheer Lunacy (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, Grade IV |
| FA: | Ron Olevsky |
| Page Views: | 16,166 total · 64/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Auer on May 11, 2002 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 
Closures in effect March 1
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is located in the recess to the left of Moonlight and shares that route's first pitch and a half. It breaks out left at this point and follows an interesting line of corners, flakes and face climbing with a cool, steep jamming pitch as the finale.
This is a fun route that doesn't get as much traffic as the surrounding trade routes. Aiding the whole route would probably warrant a slightly harder rating (C2ish?). This route is best enjoyed as a long free climb with the occasional french-free move as opposed to climbing it "wall style". The aid is straight-forward and when it gets tricky a moderate free move will get you to the next bomber placement. The only pitch we aided in entirety was the crux 5.13 RP crack (there's a 12b variation that starts down and right) and the rest of the route went free or french-free. The bolts are like Moonlight's: fat and bomber.
This is a fun route that doesn't get as much traffic as the surrounding trade routes. Aiding the whole route would probably warrant a slightly harder rating (C2ish?). This route is best enjoyed as a long free climb with the occasional french-free move as opposed to climbing it "wall style". The aid is straight-forward and when it gets tricky a moderate free move will get you to the next bomber placement. The only pitch we aided in entirety was the crux 5.13 RP crack (there's a 12b variation that starts down and right) and the rest of the route went free or french-free. The bolts are like Moonlight's: fat and bomber.
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