Elevation: 2,535 ft
GPS: 37.05079, -113.59298
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Page Views: 3,568,343 total · 15,201/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 2, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

Description

In and around the city of Saint George various small crags exist. This sunny, southwest corner of the state boasts a little of everything, which I have only sampled, but am writing up here to get the ball rolling.

The crags are mostly good, but slightly soft sandstone, sporting crimpers, slopers, pockets and nice corners and a splitter here and there. There are also limestone crags to the south and to the west. There are walls facing in every given direction which can get sun or shade at various times of day, depending on which crag you are at.

Crags such as Chuckawalla Wall, Turtle Wall and Prophesy Wall are almost exclusively sport climbs which may remind climbers of the popular sport areas at Red Rocks, NV. Bluff Street Cracks is noted for corners and cracks more reminiscent of Indian Creek. Cougar Cliffs, Black Rocks, Green Valley Gap are mostly sport with a few trad lines of note as well. Snow Canyon State Park has a good mixture of sport and trad.

Limestone areas include the Woodbury Road Crags, Utah Hills Crags, and the Virgin River Gorge.

The town of Saint George has plenty of services and hotels as well as nearby 'improved camping' at Snow Canyon State Park or free camping just outside town on BLM land. With the exception of Snow Canyon State Park and Crawdad Canyon the St. George crags are free access. While there may be relatively few classic lines on these cliffs compared to Zion, Red Rocks or the like, there are plenty of good routes in the area which could provide several days of climbing fun.

The sandstone here is easily damaged when wet. Please allow at least 24-48 hours before climbing after any precipitation. If the ground is at all damp, please do not climb on any local sandstone. Consider nearby options on basalt, limestone, granite, or plastic instead. For 24 hour rain totals use this site:  Rain Totals

Getting There

The directions for each individual crag will be more telling, but the journey to each starts near St. George Ave (I-15 Exit 8) or Bluff Street (I-15 Exit 6) in Saint George. The area is littered with cliffs, canyons, and crags.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Saint George

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4-5 6B+
 119
Toadstool Traverse
Boulder
V5 6C
 277
Huntsman Graffiti
Boulder
V6 7A
 340
Israil
Boulder
V6 7A
 97
Shot Hole
Boulder
V6 7A
 218
Pink Lady
Boulder
V8 7B
 135
Israil Direct
Boulder
V9 7C
 88
Gription
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 194
Leopard Skin
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 199
Living On The Edge
Trad 4 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 227
Banana Dance
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 126
Sunset Lanes
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 100
Three Pump Chump
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 112
Heretic Wisdom
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 95
Speaking In Tongues
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 95
It's a Good Life
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Toadstool Traverse Moe's Valley > Mario Land > Toadstool
 119
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Huntsman Graffiti Moe's Valley > Sentinel Area > Sentinel Boulder
 277
V5 6C Boulder
Israil Moe's Valley > South-W End/Pink Lady…
 340
V6 7A Boulder
Shot Hole Moe's Valley > Sentinel Area > Shot Hole Boulder
 97
V6 7A Boulder
Pink Lady Moe's Valley > South-W End/Pink Lady…
 218
V6 7A Boulder
Israil Direct Moe's Valley > South-W End/Pink Lady…
 135
V8 7B Boulder
Gription Moe's Valley > Monkey Boy Area
 88
V9 7C Boulder
Leopard Skin Snow Canyon SP > Island In The Sky > Sand Dunes
 194
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Living On The Edge Snow Canyon SP > Island In The Sky > Aftershock Wall
 199
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Banana Dance Turtle Wall
 227
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Sunset Lanes Beaver Dam Rd > Sunset Alley > Alley
 126
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Three Pump Chump Beaver Dam Rd > Sunset Alley > Alley
 100
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Heretic Wisdom Welcome Springs > Wailing Wall
 112
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Speaking In Tongues Welcome Springs > Cathedral
 95
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
It's a Good Life Beaver Dam Rd > Sunset Alley > Alley
 95
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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