All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Pinto Basin > Split Rocks > Split Rocks West > Rubicon Formation

Rubicon

Name: Rubicon
Rating: 3.9

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Rubicon Formation

L › R R › L A › Z

	Amphetamine Reptile T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Jump Start T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Jumpin' Jimmy Jones Jams Java at Josh T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pit Viper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Psychedelic Elvis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Rubicon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Seizure T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Total Generic Package (aka Mr. Swing) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Tumor Circus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	John Bald & Hank Levine, 1976 FFA: (TR) John Long and others FL: Jon Lonne, Herb Laeger, Rich Smith & Eve Uiga, December 1978
Page Views:	32,265 total · 125/month
Shared By:	Steve Juhasz on Dec 27, 2001
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is my personal favorite 5.10 route in Josh. You can rappel with one 60 meter rope, but the route has at least 40 meters of climbing to it. The upper half of the climb is a sustained and exciting finger crack with excellent nut placements and lots of amazing edges for the feet. Think carefully about how you want to protect this route since placing gear along it's entire length would result in totally unbearable rope drag by the time the crux is reached. Long runners or double ropes still do not take the bite out of the zig-zag line; luckily the start and traverse are easy and don't require too much gear (back-cleaning works well too).

Protection

Take a standard rack, with emphasis on finger-sized nuts, since the upper section of the route takes nuts very well. Bolted anchor/rap at the top of the route.