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Routes in Black Velvet Wall
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American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Epi Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Johnny Come Lately S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jugs on Drugs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Malicious Mischief T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prince of Darkness T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sourpuss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Yellow Brick Road T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Richard Harrison, Jay Smith, Nick Nordblom |
| Page Views: | 21,648 total · 109/month |
| Shared By: | J. Thompson on Nov 6, 2006 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Pitch 1: Climb up easy white rock until you reach the obvious, rightward traverse at a slab. This is not to hard but very runout. Traverse much farther than you'd think until directly below the obvious(and good) bolts leading to the bolted anchor. 5.10R.
Pitch 2: continue up varnished rock passing the occasional bolt. You will get occasional gear to supplement the bolts, but you must be crafty and attentive.Following the bolts is your best bet for locating the proper route(this goes fro all pitch's!)...look closely. Belay at 2 bolts 5.10.
Pitch 3: More of the same...follow well spaced bolts and occasional gear to a 2 bolt anchor, 5.10-R-.
Pitch 4: Yep...same stuff only this one checks in @ 5.9R.
Pitch 5: repeat.
Pitch 6: AhHa! Change! Although ever so slight! Climb the obvious bulge up and left of the belay 5.10-.
At the 2-bolt anchor, signaling the end of this pitch, you can either rap or continue up for several more pitches in the 5.8/5.9 range.
Most people rap. If you rap, consider rapping POD, it is the cleanest section of the wall and greatly reduces the chances of rope problems.
Overall a very good route, very heady....be SURE you can handle this one before trying it!
Pitch 2: continue up varnished rock passing the occasional bolt. You will get occasional gear to supplement the bolts, but you must be crafty and attentive.Following the bolts is your best bet for locating the proper route(this goes fro all pitch's!)...look closely. Belay at 2 bolts 5.10.
Pitch 3: More of the same...follow well spaced bolts and occasional gear to a 2 bolt anchor, 5.10-R-.
Pitch 4: Yep...same stuff only this one checks in @ 5.9R.
Pitch 5: repeat.
Pitch 6: AhHa! Change! Although ever so slight! Climb the obvious bulge up and left of the belay 5.10-.
At the 2-bolt anchor, signaling the end of this pitch, you can either rap or continue up for several more pitches in the 5.8/5.9 range.
Most people rap. If you rap, consider rapping POD, it is the cleanest section of the wall and greatly reduces the chances of rope problems.
Overall a very good route, very heady....be SURE you can handle this one before trying it!
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