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Quartz Mountain Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Quartz Mountain

00. Entrance Boulders 0 / 0 / 2 / 27 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28

01. Backside Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

02. Backside 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 8

03. Snakes Head / S Wall 12 / 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17

04. Headwall 9 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 13

05. Sea of Screams 10 / 12 / 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23

06. South America 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

07. Atlantic 16 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19

08. The Grunt Chamber 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

09. Watch Me Wall 11 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20

10. Forgotten Arches 8 / 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11

11. Cedar Valley 5 / 2 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15

Elevation:	1,553 ft
GPS:	34.89777, -99.33437 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	225,438 total · 1,120/month
Shared By:	Craig Childre on Aug 30, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz Page Updates (admin only)

Description

Specifically known as Baldy Point Climbing Area within Quartz Mountain State Park (QMSP).

Most routes at this winter spot see shade only early in the morning and then sun almost all day long. World class granite will test your friction skills and the bold routes will test your nerve. RX climbing at its best. The locals are a very friendly, tight knit community who all seem to share a kinship with the "rock in the farmer’s wheatfield".

Please be sure to pack out all your trash, avoid impacting any sensitive areas, and leave your hammer-n-nails or your drills at home. All the climbing is clean and new fixed pro requires pre-authorization from QMSP who reviews bolting applications with the WMCC’s Quartz Bolting Committee. You can email the QBC at abc.wmcc@gmail.com for information on the bolting application process.

Be warned that most lines designated as “sport” here on mountain project just mean that it is only bolt protected and there are unlikely to be any opportunities for natural gear. It does NOT guarantee the route to be a safe sport route. Here at Quartz long runouts are common.

Getting There

From Altus, OK, drive north on 283/6 about 20 miles till you intersect with 44 where you will take a right. 4-5 miles until you will see a left turn for Quartz Mountain on 44a which you take for about 3 miles staying to the left until you cross a small creek with a wellhouse on the right (this dirt road will take you straight over to the base but is rough and can be muddy) which you pass up looking for the next paved right. The sign here has been removed due to the repave job as of Fall 2007. Taking this paved road north a mile take another right which is still clearly marked, over to the wall and park in the lot next to the picnic tables.

Guidebook

The latest guide is Oklahoma Rock A Climber's Guide by Tony Mayse. Available at most local gyms and shops, as well as at Sharp End Books.

Quote from Mark Herndon

"I've been to the Valley, Yosemite, but the face climbing at Quartz Mountain in Oklahoma is much better."

taken from Oklahoma Rock - written by Doug Robinson

The rock at Quartz had been a pleasant surprise, but the climbs were downright unbelievable, bold to a standard seldom seen elsewhere. They bespoke committed vision backed solidly by technique--the boys had learned a lot since the days of leather belts and moldy ropes--and seemingly unshakable mind control. Scanning the guidebook, I could see many such routes designated by an "xx" after the rating. The definition was chilling: "xx means a ground fall is very possible."

Read the full story here at the WMCC site

Gear

Rope: A 70m rope is really helpful at Quartz as there is a descent route from most areas that can be done with 1 (or sometimes 2) rap(s) using a single 70m, rather than one rappel using 2 ropes. A few exceptions like South America wall exist, and will require 2 ropes anyway. Always knot your rope ends and when in doubt, trail a second rope!

Rack: many of the routes have few enough protection opportunites to make use of more than a single rack, but some of the easier crack are long enough that you could make use of doubles in every size. 6-12 draws/slings for clipping bolts and extending gear placements. It’s handy to have a couple locking draws for extra reassurance on the sparsely bolted slabs. When in doubt take extra gear.

Camping

Camping is available at Quartz Mountain Nature Park

https://www.travelok.com/listings/view.profile/id.6151

There is no overnight camping/parking at Mount Baldy, with 2 exceptions. The annual Fall Gathering (typically the first weekend of November) and the Spring Fling (typically the first weekend of April). These dates can vary.

170 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Quartz Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V3+ 6A+ 16 ● Munge Lunge Boulder 11. Cedar Valley > Munge Lunge Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X 34 ● Snakes Head Trad 03. Snakes Head / S Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 51 ● The Hobbit Trad 05. Sea of Screams
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 40 ● Who's Got the Juice Sport, TR 05. Sea of Screams
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R 19 ● Atlantic Route Trad 07. Atlantic
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 25 ● Three Bolt Trad 2 pitches 07. Atlantic
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 23 ● Bourbon Street Trad 04. Headwall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R 31 ● S-Wall Sport 2 pitches 03. Snakes Head / S Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 21 ● El Tesoro Sport 07. Atlantic
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 31 ● Amazon Woman Sport 06. S America
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 18 ● Last of the Good Guys Trad 04. Headwall
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 27 ● Stray Cat Blues Trad 11. Cedar Valley > Stray Cats Wall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 32 ● Super Slide Sport, TR 05. Sea of Screams
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R 3 ● Chicago Bound Sport 04. Headwall
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R 16 ● Moose Head Trad 03. Snakes Head / S Wall