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Quail Springs Area Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Quail Springs Area

AFPA Rock 20 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24

Baskerville Rock 9 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11

Courthouse Formation 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Erotic Dome 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Hound Rock 7 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Johnny Lang Crags 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Lizard's Landing 9 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11

Main Gate Rock 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Mini Crag 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Negropolis Hillside 12 / 10 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24

Trashcan Rock 26 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27

Vagmarken Hill 34 / 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 39

White Cliffs of Dover 29 / 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 33

Elevation:	3,976 ft
GPS:	34.0402, -116.1976 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	291,225 total · 1,177/month
Shared By:	Mike Morley on Nov 19, 2002
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

Description

The Quail Springs Day Use Area is the first major landmark on your right if you are driving in from the West Entrance of the Park (i.e., the town of Joshua Tree). There is a paved parking area, restroom, etc. The main attraction here is Trashcan Rock, which hosts a high concentration of easier routes (5.0 - 5.6), a few moderates (5.7 - 5.9), and a few harder routes (5.10 - 5.11). Several routes warrant an 'R' or 'X' rating, and as such there are usually quite a few topropes. Not many of the climbs are all that great, but it is popular nonetheless.

In addition to Trashcan Rock, use the parking area to access Baskerville Rock, Hound Rock, and the White Cliffs of Dover. Be sure to check out Right Baskerville Crack (5.10a) on Baskerville Rock as well as Popular Mechanics (5.9) and Ace of Spades (5.9) on White Cliffs of Dover.

Getting There

The Quail Springs Day Use Area is the first major landmark on your right if you are driving in from the West Entrance of the Park (i.e., the town of Joshua Tree). It is about 6 miles from the West Entrance kiosk and is signed.

202 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Quail Springs Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 23 ● The Ranch Hand Trad Vagmarken Hill > Vagmarken Hill… > (f) The Ranch
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 211 ● Tiptoe Trad Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - W Face
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 156 ● Cranny Trad Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - W Face
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 58 ● Wilted Flower Children Trad White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 272 ● Ace of Spades Trad White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 358 ● Popular Mechanics Trad White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 62 ● Jack of Hearts Trad White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 162 ● Right Baskerville Crack Trad Baskerville Rock
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 165 ● Tossed Green Trad Hound Rock
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 75 ● Left Sawdust Crack Trad Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - E Face
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 108 ● Profundity Trad Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - W Face
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 65 ● Field and Stream Trad White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 41 ● Good Housekeeping Trad White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 42 ● Butterfly Crack Trad Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - E Face
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 9 ● Soviet Union Trad White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…