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Pretty Hate Machine
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.6 from 105
votes
Routes in The Arsenal
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Black Caesar S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bobby Brown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Chain Gang, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Climb-A-Dime-A-Ding-Dang S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Colinator, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Das Fruit Machine S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Debaser S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Doctor Epic (Doktor Epik?) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Dope Party S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Fool’s Gold S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Fresh Loaf S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Jamboree (Jam-bor-knee) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Lolanator S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Matador Pants S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Path, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Pollinator, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pretty Hate Machine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pump-O-Nator S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pump-O-Rama S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Rendezspew S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Salty S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Slagissimo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Smarmacus Maximus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sprayathon S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Spurt-a-tron S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Squeal Like A Pig S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Turtle Power S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Use It Or Lose It S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Vitamin D S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Vitamin H S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Steve Landin |
| Page Views: | 12,797 total · 50/month |
| Shared By: | richard magill on Dec 28, 2001 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Super-mega-ultra-classic! It is possibly the best sport route in the universe.
This route is rated 12b in the guides, but I think there is a broad consensus among everyone who climbs it that it is at least a letter grade harder than that.
This line is on the far left side of the Arsenal. It can be easily recognized by the fixed, chain draws.
The first difficulties are encountered early, where you do a series of 12a/b underclinging and sidepulling maneuvers to get past a small roof. The hardest part about the first 20 feet is tricky, slippery footwork.
Next, you enter a long stretch of big reaches on steep stone, all to good holds, but it is very pumpy. After a somewhat energy-sapping clip, you will do a little 12a maneuvering to a jug, where you will set up for the crux.
This involves a tenuous, middle 12 reach off of two slopers to a square-cut, arete-type feature. After standing, this move all the way up, there are jugs. It is wise to recover here, because there remains an 11+ roof above guarding the anchors.
If you send it, humble yourself by remembering that it is still one of the easiest lines in the Arsenal.
This route is rated 12b in the guides, but I think there is a broad consensus among everyone who climbs it that it is at least a letter grade harder than that.
This line is on the far left side of the Arsenal. It can be easily recognized by the fixed, chain draws.
The first difficulties are encountered early, where you do a series of 12a/b underclinging and sidepulling maneuvers to get past a small roof. The hardest part about the first 20 feet is tricky, slippery footwork.
Next, you enter a long stretch of big reaches on steep stone, all to good holds, but it is very pumpy. After a somewhat energy-sapping clip, you will do a little 12a maneuvering to a jug, where you will set up for the crux.
This involves a tenuous, middle 12 reach off of two slopers to a square-cut, arete-type feature. After standing, this move all the way up, there are jugs. It is wise to recover here, because there remains an 11+ roof above guarding the anchors.
If you send it, humble yourself by remembering that it is still one of the easiest lines in the Arsenal.
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