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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Ancient of Days T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Autumn Flare T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Certified Raw T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Discord T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Extreme Unction T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gathering, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	God's Grace (Pure and Simple) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gun Control T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Home Run Derby T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Howling, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	In Vivo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Junior Varsity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Karmic Kickback T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Keep Off Flake T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Lex Luther T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Macrobiotic T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Menace To Sobriety S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Mogster S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	P.T. Pillar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Pearly Gates T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Pentecostal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Psalm 32 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Shark Week T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Sharpening the Blade T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Smallville Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Smear Campaign T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
	Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Summer Break T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Time Jumpers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ukiah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Under the Influence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Verdon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Waterloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Elevation:	1,726 ft
GPS:	44.40783, -73.50371 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	172,164 total · 856/month
Shared By:	gilp on Sep 9, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, Jim Lawyer, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.

Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.

Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.

Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.

In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.

Description

The cliff is extremely impressive for the Adirondacks. It lords over Interstate 87 between exits 32 and 33. There have been many close calls and near miss accidents as climbers strain to see the cliff and all it offers. Most of the routes on the cliff are in the moderate to hard range; that is don't expect the wonderful selection the Gunks offers, you have to earn the climbs here. However, if you feel comfortable at these grades then this is the place to be for big, long, and exposed pitches of high quality granite. Add to this the distance it takes to get there from major cities, this cliff has a quiet feel that is pure Adirondack climbing.

And that is just the rock, don't get me started about the ice. Check out Don Mellor's guidebook Blue Lines for route descriptions.

Getting There

Take 87 getting off at the Willsboro exit and head toward the cliff. Look to park at the DEC campground under the cliff. Park here and pay the $1 per climber/hiker fee. Follow the trail that begins off the back of the campground next to the large boulder.

93 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 131 ● The Sting Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 217 ● Gamesmanship Trad 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 34 ● Cirrhosis Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 46 ● Phase III Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 100 ● Bloody Mary Trad 6 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 41 ● The Great Dihedral Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 30 ● Scallion Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 141 ● The Fastest Gun Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 25 ● The Snatch Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 10 ● Freedom Flight Trad 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 46 ● Son of a Mother Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 23 ● C-Tips Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 35 ● Menace To Sobriety Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 30 ● Casual Observer Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 14 ● Earthly Night Sport 3 pitches