Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: July 14, 1941; Paul Petzoldt, Elizabeth Cowles, Marry Merrick and Frederick Wilson Jr.
Page Views: 227 total · 36/month
Shared By: Russ Gray on Sep 6, 2022
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description

This is the original line on the ridge and follows weaknesses on the face to the right of the crest. The rock quality is mostly excellent and several enjoyable variations are possible.

(1) The original start in the Stettner Couloir is no longer recommended because of increased rockfall in the couloir. We avoided the couloir by climbing a variation starting at the base of the buttress, moving up and traversing right for two short pitches to the base of the left facing corner.

(2) Climb the left facing corner up left past a couple of old fixed pitons and then slightly right to a small ledge below a steeper section & small roof. (Note that this corner feature is not visible when standing at the toe of the buttress.)

(3) Climb through the roof and a short left facing corner and then follow a crack system to a belay

(4) continue up the crack system to a belay left of a roof.

(5) climb a gully or cracks on either side and belay below a chimney

(6) climb the chimney and then scramble to the top of the ridge

From the top of the buttress a short rappel leads to the notch and a large left (west) trending ramp that joins the Exum Ridge Ridge above the Golden Stair.

Location

Follow the black dike approach as for Petzoldt Direct

Protection

Standard Rack to 3”

Photos

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