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Path of Totality
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in (s) Monkey Face
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Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Backbone, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Close Shave S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2 |
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East Face Start T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Monkey Farce T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Moving in Stereo S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Northwest Corner, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
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Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0 |
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Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Spank The Monkey (Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R |
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West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1 |
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West Face Crack (West Face P1) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 |
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West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Charlie Egan and Matt Spohn |
| Page Views: | 3,862 total · 59/month |
| Shared By: | peachy spohn on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Charlie and I climbed this route during the totality of the 2017 eclipse. It was an exciting venture and an exciting route (really it's just a long and exposed boulder problem several hundred feet off the deck).
Start a little left of the middle of the cave and climb out the overhang, doing gymnastic moves and some campusing while veering rightward.
I placed two cams in a rotten horizontal shelf about 10 feet into the climb. If these blow you will take a factor two fall, your rope tightening over the 90 degree lip of the cave. This would be very bad and I think the climb deserves an R/X rating (I bounced tested the placements before I lead the route and they held. They might hold a lead fall).
After this do a really spectacular move that involves an undercling jug, a heal hook, and a little crimper fin. So neat!
Then stay calm, move even higher above those cams, do a nifty reach out right, sling the natural handle bar, and say yippee! phew! thank goodness! Then change your diaper.
Start a little left of the middle of the cave and climb out the overhang, doing gymnastic moves and some campusing while veering rightward.
I placed two cams in a rotten horizontal shelf about 10 feet into the climb. If these blow you will take a factor two fall, your rope tightening over the 90 degree lip of the cave. This would be very bad and I think the climb deserves an R/X rating (I bounced tested the placements before I lead the route and they held. They might hold a lead fall).
After this do a really spectacular move that involves an undercling jug, a heal hook, and a little crimper fin. So neat!
Then stay calm, move even higher above those cams, do a nifty reach out right, sling the natural handle bar, and say yippee! phew! thank goodness! Then change your diaper.
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