Elevation: 131 ft
GPS: 39.2474, -76.7632
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Shared By: Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009
Admins: Frances Fierst

Description

A slew of areas scattered across many miles. Nothing is big (80 feet max) but the proximity to the metropolitan area, generally easy access, good climbs, and generous people make the area one of the best in Maryland.

Mostly Topropes, but some good leads as well. For trad the classic is the notoriously sandbagged Blue Rose at 5.8+. And for sport check out The Truth at 10d.

Cataloged here are only a few of the best areas. Local John Kelbel has recently released a darn near comprehensive guide to the area at Patapsco Rock He has diligently walked almost the entire park and his guide will get you to nearly 100 different climbable pieces of rock in the park. The guide is all online using Google Earth. Need to download the plug-in but definitely worth the hassle. Check it out.

Getting There

Patapsco State Park runs from just south of Baltimore city west and slightly north till Sykesville. The access points differ for each cliff and are described in the appropriate section.

126 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Patapsco Valley State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 24
Strawberry
Boulder
V5 6C
 5
Crayon Car Direct
Boulder
V6 7A
 7
Danatron
Boulder
V7 7A+
 18
The Guillotine
Boulder
V7 7A+ PG13
 4
The Arkenstone
Boulder
V8 7B
 5
Sykesville Monster
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
The Corner
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 30
Blue Rose
Trad, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 10
Alberton Roof
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Bloody Bucket
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
The Wimpy Whiner Way
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V2 5+
 20
The Jam
Boulder
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 4
Do What!
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Midnight Lightning
TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 22
The Truth
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Strawberry Levitation Boul… > Jam Boulder
 24
V1 5 Boulder
Crayon Car Direct Levitation Boul… > Jam Boulder
 5
V5 6C Boulder
Danatron Woodstock Rock
 7
V6 7A Boulder
The Guillotine Levitation Boul… > Jam Boulder
 18
V7 7A+ Boulder
The Arkenstone Erebor
 4
V7 7A+ PG13 Boulder
Sykesville Monster Levitation Boul… > Jam Boulder
 5
V8 7B Boulder
The Corner Friction Wall
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Blue Rose Ilchester
 30
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Alberton Roof Alberton > Alberton Rock
 10
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c TR
Bloody Bucket Woodstock Rock
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Wimpy Whiner Way Woodstock Rock
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Jam Levitation Boul… > Jam Boulder
 20
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V2 5+ Boulder
Do What! Woodstock Rock
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad, TR
Midnight Lightning Ilchester
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b TR
The Truth Friction Wall
 22
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Patapsco Valley State Park »

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