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Routes in Funk Rock City
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Appalachian Spring S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cruising Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Emphysema T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Eye of the Needle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Frugal Chariot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Funkadelic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Glory Be S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Go Easy Billy Clyde! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Goodstone T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hardcore Jollies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Headstone Surfer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Infidel, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Joe Camel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Just Another Trad Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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L'ile Au Ciel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Local Color TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Manic Impression S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Prime Directive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Red Hot Chilli Pepper T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rite of Passage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Seppuku S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Smokin' Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Snotrocket T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Sparkey Goes Crack Climbing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Trad Wagon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Up Swift Creek Without A Paddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Veldhaus Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Hugh Loeffler, 1995 |
| Page Views: | 13,532 total · 83/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 12, 2009 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Billy Simek, saxfiend, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
How did Porter miss this 'Heinous Cling' of the Red? This unbelievable orange streak of sculpted pockets & edges is surely one of the top five lines in the Red. Few lines anywhere rival this route for quality & continuity.
Despite its location far off the beaten path, OJ sees constant traffic even on weekdays, and should be on every 5.12 climber's list. With 90 unrelenting feet of technical face climbing split by great rests, culminating in a devious crux 70 feet up the wall, this route will test all of your face climbing skills, and more than a bit of your resolve.
Begin with long moves up the short slab. The angle kicks back at the first bolt, as a short warmup leads to the first crux at the second bolt. An engaging series of short boulder problems follows, all split by good shakes in the juggy horizontal bands that split the wall. Around the 7th bolt, one harder move leads to an enormous jug, just below the crux. Get a good shake here, figure out which tick marks to believe, and hang on as long as you can. If you're not hanging from the end of your rope by now, get one more good shake for another tricky section of 2 finger pockets & thin edges, ending at a huge horizontal break. A few more thin moves on slabbier terrain lead to the anchor.
Despite its location far off the beaten path, OJ sees constant traffic even on weekdays, and should be on every 5.12 climber's list. With 90 unrelenting feet of technical face climbing split by great rests, culminating in a devious crux 70 feet up the wall, this route will test all of your face climbing skills, and more than a bit of your resolve.
Begin with long moves up the short slab. The angle kicks back at the first bolt, as a short warmup leads to the first crux at the second bolt. An engaging series of short boulder problems follows, all split by good shakes in the juggy horizontal bands that split the wall. Around the 7th bolt, one harder move leads to an enormous jug, just below the crux. Get a good shake here, figure out which tick marks to believe, and hang on as long as you can. If you're not hanging from the end of your rope by now, get one more good shake for another tricky section of 2 finger pockets & thin edges, ending at a huge horizontal break. A few more thin moves on slabbier terrain lead to the anchor.
Location
Follow the Funk Rock cliff line east past the large fenced off overhang, and past the slightly overhanging parallel bolt lines of Appalachian Spring & Seppuku. The wall curves in a bit just past these last two routes, and you will pass one more bolted line "There Goes the Neighborhood". Orange Juice is the next bolted line, climbing a heavily chalked, brilliant orange streak.
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