All Locations > California > Southern-Wester… > Southern Sierra - The…

New Directions Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in New Directions

Asylum, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Globule, The 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Heart Rock 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Little Rock 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Middle Cliff 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Morgue, The 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

New Directions Cliff 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Nowhere Man 1 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

One Minute Walk Rock 2 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Parking Lot Rock 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Rusty Nail Area 5 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

Elevation:	3,247 ft
GPS:	35.8212, -118.4575 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	55,103 total · 403/month
Shared By:	Ryan Nevius on Dec 22, 2011 · Updates
Admins:	Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

Description

New Directions consists of seven, and counting, relatively compact climbing areas: Parking Lot Rock, The Globule, Middle Cliff, Heart Rock, Rusty Nail, Nowhere Man, The Asylum, and The Morgue. All areas can be seen from the road as you approach.The areas are located about a half mile north of Kernville Rock (Kern Slabs). For great pictures, history, route beta and etc, get the local guide here:
kernvalleyclimbs.com/
The climbing is substantially steep slab, with old school ratings. Clean rock, good sun exposure for late fall, winter and early spring. Can be HOT in summer. Kern River is 3 minute hike from the parking area.

Getting There

~5 miles from Kernville on the Mountain Hwy 99 you'll pass Camp 3. Approximately 1/2 mile past Camp 3 sign you'll see a small sign on your right "Chico Flats". Park here.

There are currently two established trails used to access the different areas. Just south of the small parking area on the east side of the road is one trail going straight up the hill and leading to Parking Lot Rock and Middle Cliff. The other trail is just around the large boulder parallel to the road and it is used to access the rest of the areas areas.

50 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location:	New Directions Change
Type:	to Trad Sport Toprope
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:	then:

Classic Climbing Routes at New Directions

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 8 ● Rusty Nail Sport New Directions Cliff
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 9 ● [Redacted] Trad 2 pitches Rusty Nail Area
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 14 ● Sunrise Service Sport Heart Rock
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 4 ● Crack to Nowhere Sport Nowhere Man
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 6 ● Seven Draws Sport Rusty Nail Area
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 9 ● Nowhere Man Sport Nowhere Man
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 6 ● I think I'll skip the roof. Sport Globule
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 6 ● The Kern Mantle Sport Middle Cliff
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 6 ● Anxiety Attack Trad 2 pitches Rusty Nail Area
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 3 ● Unnamed Sources Trad Parking Lot Rock
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 5 ● Somewhere Man Sport Nowhere Man
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 3 ● Boot Laeger Sport Rusty Nail Area
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 3 ● Welcome to The Asylum Trad 2 pitches Asylum
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 5 ● Assault and Battery Sport 2 pitches Nowhere Man
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 4 ● The Heckler Sport Middle Cliff