Elevation: 7,191 ft
GPS: 38.81381, -108.61917
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 167,038 total · 1,023/month
Shared By: Matthew Seymour on Oct 15, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Private Property borders Details

Description

The Mother's Buttress area was one of the first areas in the canyon to be developed, and with good reason. Excellent stone with continuous cracks, excellent solid face features, and steep unbroken rock make this area a true gem. The Mother's Buttress is broken into three main crags: Lower, Middle, and Upper Mother's Buttresses. A smaller crag, the Cave Buttress, is also accessed from the same approach, simply walk up and right once you reach the cliff.

Lower Mother's contains a great collection of single pitch cracks from 5.7 to 5.10, and is often a popular area for groups to set up top-ropes. The alcove on Middle Mother's contains the best collection of single pitch 5.11s in the canyon, with a few harder, and longer lines thrown in. Upper Mother's is home to a few classics including Questions and Answers, the undisputed classic multi-pitch in the canyon.

The majority of climbing on Mother's Buttress is on property that is currently owned by local climbers, but will soon be held by a climbing non-profit: the Western Colorado Climbers Coalition. Due to the way the property lines were drawn some climbs on the right side of Lower Mother's and all those on Cave Buttress are owned by another, and this parcel is currently for sale. Stay tuned for more developments.

As of July 2012, the WCCC with the help of volunteers, donations, and grants has been completed the Mother's Buttress project. A special thank you to the Petersons, who bought this property to keep it in climbersÂ’ hands and subdivided it so the cliff side would be open to the public for future generations. The Access Fund also played a key role in this project.

Getting There

Drive 3.1 miles along CO-141 past the turn for divide road to a small pull out on the right side of the road.

There is a new trail that avoids private land that starts just left of the old trail. If you get the right trail you don't need to jump the fence, it is cut down between two of the posts.

Please park a couple feet back away from the edge of the gravel.

136 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mother's Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 69
Welcoming Party
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 38
Cow-a-Bunga
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 44
84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The…
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 38
Black Bunny Rabbit
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 48
Mint Jam
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 42
Guide's Route
Trad 6 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 52
No Name Route
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 47
RSG
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 10
Pleasure Pillar Arete (AKA Facia…
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Large, Purple and Violent
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Dumps Like a Truck
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 54
Questions and Answers
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 13
Indirect Objects
Trad 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 10
Iron Maiden
Trad, Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Alacrity
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Welcoming Party Lower Mother's Buttress
 69
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Cow-a-Bunga Lower Mother's Buttress
 38
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
84.1% Eclipse of the Heart… Other Mothers
 44
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Black Bunny Rabbit Other Mothers
 38
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Mint Jam Lower Mother's Buttress
 48
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Guide's Route Lower Mother's Buttress
 42
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
No Name Route Lower Mother's Buttress
 52
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
RSG Other Mothers
 47
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pleasure Pillar Arete (AKA… Cave Buttress
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Large, Purple and Violent Outback
 18
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Dumps Like a Truck Hank's World > Main Wall
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Questions and Answers Upper Mother's Buttress
 54
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Indirect Objects Middle Mother's
 13
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Iron Maiden Middle Mother's
 10
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport
Alacrity Middle Mother's
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mother's Buttress »

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