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Middle Spire Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Middle Spire

L › R R › L A › Z

	Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Beautiful Let Down T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Harding's Other Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Prow, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Slowdancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Tyro's Test Piece T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Elevation:	6,028 ft
GPS:	38.7875, -120.2441 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	61,341 total · 284/month
Shared By:	Aron Quiter on Jun 20, 2005
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures Details

While climbing is open, Wrights Lake Road is within the Caldor Fire closure: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/. Plan to approach from Hwy 50. In addition, Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.

Description

The most popular spire at Phantom Spires is the middle spire. It's easy to get to, it's got a wide variety of routes (5.5 - 5.12) on terrain that varies from very slabby to moderatly overhung.

All the rock is frictiony granite that is often quite knobby.

As a spire in the middle of an open field, the rock is exposed to sun on different sides at different times of the day. The West side can be quite windy, since the exposed boulder field heading down the hill grabs gusts and throws them up past the spire.

Kandyland (5.10c) is an awesome traditional lead using slings on solid huge knobs for most of the route.

All routes descend via rappel, as there is no really easy way to the top of the spire.

Getting There

Approach time: 10 minutes.

From the main parking lot, head uphill to the west out of theparking lot on a moderately wide trail leading through the trees. This trail will wander up and down hillsides through a gully of sorts aiming directly at the Middle Spire, which can be seen at times. The approach trail will run into the Northeast corner of the spire.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 205 ● Over Easy Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 130 ● Regular Route Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X 15 ● Anal Sex Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R 5 ● Chainsaw Willie Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 165 ● Lean And Mean Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 81 ● Hard Up Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 85 ● Corn Flakes Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 40 ● Slowdancer Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 5 ● Hooray Hooray! Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 51 ● Penny Candy Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 86 ● The Prow Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 26 ● Fancy Dancin' Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 251 ● Candyland Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 70 ● Candyass Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 47 ● Leaner and Meaner Trad