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Malicious Mischief

Name: Malicious Mischief
Rating: 1.3

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R

Routes in Black Velvet Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Epi Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Johnny Come Lately S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Jugs on Drugs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Malicious Mischief T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Prince of Darkness T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
	Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sourpuss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Yellow Brick Road T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 715 ft (217 m), 5 pitches
FA:	Joe Herbst, Stephanie Petrilak, Mike Gilbert - May 1978.
Page Views:	1,091 total · 26/month
Shared By:	Josh Janes on Oct 4, 2019
Admins:	Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

Malicious Mischief is the analog crack to the Epinephrine chimneys. Despite being one of the most obvious lines in all of Black Velvet Canyon, it doesn't see much traffic - probably because the stunning crux pitch has a reputation for being dangerous. This reputation is well-deserved. The first 50' of the crack are 12-16" and nearly unprotectable - a fall would probably result in serious injury or death. The good news is the climbing is much easier than the grade given (5.10c) in recent guidebooks and, excepting breaking a hold, chances of blowing it are low. If you got really spooked I think you could try to burrow into the crack itself... though this would certainly not be the easiest way to climb it?

P1 (200', 5.8): Same as Epinephrine: Climb pockets and slab to a bushy ledge. Move into a left-facing corner and continue up through a small roof, up a slab, and up a leaning, right-facing corner to a bolted belay.

P2 (100', 5.7): Almost the same as Epinephrine: Climb up a deep chimney but instead of busting out right onto the face halfway up, continue up the chimney moving up and left to a bolted anchor below the Black Tower.

P3/4 (200', 5.7): Climb a long pitch (or two) wandering up and left around the corner to the left side of the Black Tower. Belay off gear below the ominous crack above.

P5/6 (150-200', 5.9): Chickenwing and face climb the unprotected wide crack for a long ways... Don't fall. Great footholds and handholds prevent this from becoming what would otherwise be a physical battle. At the 50-foot mark the crack suddenly pinches down a bit and a 9" cam can provide much-needed protection. A bit further the crack narrows again and a #5 Camalot will fit. Shortly thereafter more conventional cams work. Belay on any number of rounded ledges above the meat of the climbing or just keep going on much easier ground to the top of the Black Tower.