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Magoos Bouldering

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Magoos

Beak, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Dog Dish Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18

Mr Magoo Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 26 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26

Mrs Magoo Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Elevation:	3,168 ft
GPS:	37.2283, -122.0957 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	164,669 total · 673/month
Shared By:	Aron Quiter on Feb 3, 2003
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK CLOSURES; The sandstone around Castle Rock is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged (like Donkey Dong and countless others) due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB AT CASTLE ROCK during or after rain.

Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.

Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.

Description

Bouldering bouldering bouldering. This is what Castle rock is "famous" for anyways right? Grab and hang onto as many sandstone holds, slopers, jugs, buckets, and little things as you can!

The Magoos are classic bouldering, offering a variety of problems from 5.1 to Vreally really hard. You will see people working on problems in all ranges as well on a weekend, and you may be the only person there on a weekday.

There are no access issues to climb in Castle Rock, unless you don't like people coming to the area that are not climbers watching you in amazement.

Some routes are in the sun, but most are usually in the shade.

Getting There

Approach time: 5 - 15 minutes.

From the main Castle Rock parking lot, head up to Castle Rock proper. This involves taking the paths to the left out of the parking lot, which are all marked as going to Castle Rock.

Walk up the path hanging a right (uphill) at the junction with the service road, and just short of Castle Rock itself you will see a group of boulders on your left 50 yards from the rock.

58 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Magoos

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V0 4 125 ● Warm Up Boulder Mr Magoo Boulder
V1 5 88 ● Unnamed Boulder Mr Magoo Boulder
V1 5 98 ● The Warm Up Boulder Dog Dish Boulders
V1 5 49 ● The Groove Boulder Mrs Magoo Boulder
V1-2 5 180 ● Mr Magoo Boulder Mr Magoo Boulder
V2 5+ 56 ● Mrs. Magoo Boulder Mrs Magoo Boulder
V2 5+ 98 ● Magoo Face Boulder Mr Magoo Boulder
V2-3 5+ 58 ● Overhanging Lieback Boulder Mr Magoo Boulder
V3 6A 107 ● The Beak Traverse Boulder Beak
V3 6A 91 ● The Swim Boulder Mrs Magoo Boulder
V3-4 6A+ 40 ● Mrs. Magoo Traverse Boulder Mrs Magoo Boulder
V4- 6B 53 ● The Slope Boulder Dog Dish Boulders
V4 6B 133 ● Hueco Slap Boulder Dog Dish Boulders
V5 6C 86 ● Bates Problem (stand) Boulder Mr Magoo Boulder
V5-6 6C+ 93 ● Hueco Wall Boulder Dog Dish Boulders