Elevation: 6,400 ft
GPS: 39.92885, -105.28656
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 81,392 total · 393/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 18, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

There are two smaller, N facing crags that make up the Peanuts Walls - Upper and Lower. This division covers the Lower Peanuts Wall for organizational purposes. Here you will find routes from 1-3 pitches in length. No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult. This crag has an advantage of shade in the summer heat. Here, you may feel the feeling of being up with the birds while still close to the ground. Also, there are benefits of some element of isolation with excellent views of the entire northern half of Eldorado Canyon, in particular Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge.

While no climb here is likely to be top twenty in Eldorado Canyon, you can find delightful terrain for traditional-oriented, moderate climber. Some of the gems here include: Your Basic Lieback, 5.6; Star Wars, 5.8; the namesake route, Peanuts (opened by the amazing Layton Kor & Charles Roskosz in 1961), 5.9; Blows Against the Empire, 5.11a; Forbidden Planet, 5.11 a/b; Home Free, 5.11b, & Just Another Girl's Climb, 5.12a/b s.

The left side of the crag is likely the terrain for the seekers of the obscure or runout. Few climbers travel this side of the crag.

Note there is still some loose rock here in places. Caution and helmets may be advisable. Ken Black, on the first free ascent of The Shield, fell to his death after pulling a large block off and chopping his rope.

Descents involve either rappelling or walkoff/scramble off to the climber's right.

Note, this is not a child nor dog friendly area.

Getting There

There are several ways of approaching the wall. The easiest access is achieved by parking at the western end of the park, possibly at the Rattlesnake Gulch trailhead (about 150m West of the Milton Boulder). Then, head east on this nearly-flat, Fowler Trail probably 1/4 mile until you are below these two crags. Ascend a non-erosive path up the talus field with some boulder hopping to Lower Peanuts.

The other way of getting here is to hike up the Bastille Trail then head West until you're below the talus field.

42 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Peanuts

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 181
Your Basic Lieback
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 120
Dihedral
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 486
West Crack (aka Star Wars)
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 66
Cornered, straight up variation
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 200
Peanuts
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 87
Trouble And Strife
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 60
Blows Against the Empire
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 57
Forbidden Planet
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 49
Scorpions
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 17
Young, Blonde, and Easy
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 19
Criller
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 16
Just Another Girl's Climb
Trad, Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of…
Trad, TR
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
 6
The Sacred and the Profane
Sport
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 7
Black Pearl
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Your Basic Lieback
 181
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Dihedral
 120
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
West Crack (aka Star Wars)
 486
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Cornered, straight up varia…
 66
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Peanuts
 200
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Trouble And Strife
 87
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Blows Against the Empire
 60
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Forbidden Planet
 57
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Scorpions
 49
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Young, Blonde, and Easy
 17
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Criller
 19
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Just Another Girl's Climb
 16
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospe…
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, TR
The Sacred and the Profane
 6
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R Sport
Black Pearl
 7
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
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