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Little Devil
5.15d YDS 9c French 39 Ewbanks XIII- UIAA 41 ZA E11 8c British V16-17 YDS 9A Font WI8 M13+ A5+ Steep Snow X
Avg: 3.8 from 120
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Routes in Miscellaneous Castlewood Boulder problems
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Dingus V2 5+ |
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Gold Digger V2 5+ |
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Little Devil TR 5.15d 9c 39 XIII- 41 E11 8c V16-17 9A WI8 M13+ A5+ Steep Snow X |
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Prowerful Arete V1 5 |
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Surfer's Paradise V1 5 |
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| Type: | TR, Aid, Boulder, Mixed, Ice, Snow |
| FA: | Luc Gruenther |
| Page Views: | 60,304 total · 243/month |
| Shared By: | Luc Gruenther on Nov 6, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
This problem is on the Falls Trail near the waterfall on the west side of the creek. Approach from the car is 5 minutes or less.
This strenuous problem begins with a sit down start. Sidepull your way up the pumpy and continuous arete on dicey feet until you can dyno for the lip. Once at the lip, the secondary crux is topping out on the exposed boulder.
I thought about putting a bolt below the lip to protect the secondary crux, but decided against it...in its current state, Little Devil offers quite a mental and physical challenge.
This strenuous problem begins with a sit down start. Sidepull your way up the pumpy and continuous arete on dicey feet until you can dyno for the lip. Once at the lip, the secondary crux is topping out on the exposed boulder.
I thought about putting a bolt below the lip to protect the secondary crux, but decided against it...in its current state, Little Devil offers quite a mental and physical challenge.
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