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Lake Willoughby Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Lake Willoughby

Mount Hor 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Mount Pisgah 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 23

Elevation:	1,185 ft
GPS:	44.718, -72.02984 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	109,134 total · 550/month
Shared By:	Luc-514 on Nov 27, 2006
Admins:	Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

We're claiming it: This is the largest concentration of hard ice routes in the continental United States. Several committing multipitch grade IV WI5s or harder can be found towering above the lake waiting to test you. Willoughby is also home to the East Coast's first bonafide WI6 ice climb: Call of the Wild II WI6 which was first freed by Jim Shimberg in March of 1996. In summary, you can't throw an ice axe around here without finding WI5. Enjoy.

If you run out of what's listed here just start asking around. MP has less than half of what is actually here.

Ice Climbing conditions on NEIce:
http://www.iceclimbingforums.com/forumdisplay.php?18-Vermont

Getting There

Route 5A about 15 miles North of Lyndonville, VT. Park below the routes and hike in (30-60 minutes).

From Montreal:
200km, 2:15
On Google maps

Head south-east on Autoroute 15 S and take Champlain Bridge
Continue onto Autoroute 10 E, About 1 hour 11 mins, go 114 km
Take exit 121 to merge onto Autoroute 55 S toward Coaticook/Stanstead/Magog/Vermont/Autoroute 91

Entering United States (Vermont), About 21 mins, go 34.8 km

Continue onto I-91 S, About 15 mins, go 25.4 km
Take exit 26 for VT-58/US-5 toward Irasburg/Orleans, About 1 min, go 400 m
Turn left onto US-5 S/VT-58 E

Continue to follow VT-58 E, About 1 min, go 1.2 km

Slight right onto Church St go 300 m, Continue onto East St go 130 m
Slight right onto VT-58 E/Evansville Rd/Willoughby Ave,

Continue to follow VT-58 E/Evansville Rd, About 9 mins, go 10.2 km

Slight right onto VT-5A S/Willoughby Lk Rd

Continue to follow VT-5A S

Lodging and dinning

You'll find plenty of choices within 20 minutes of the cliffs, south in Burke, Lyndon and Lyndonville, and a couple places west near Barton.

25 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lake Willoughby

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

WI5 34 ● Last Gentleman Ice 4 pitches Mt Pisgah
WI5 6 ● Who's Who in Outer Space Ice 3 pitches Mt Pisgah
WI5+ R 13 ● Called on Account of Rains Ice 4 pitches Mt Pisgah
WI4- 28 ● The Tablets Left Ice 2 pitches Mt Pisgah
WI5- 30 ● Crazy Diamond Ice 2 pitches Mt Pisgah
WI5+ 17 ● Mindbender Ice Mt Pisgah
WI5+ 20 ● The Promenade Ice 4 pitches Mt Pisgah
WI4+ 19 ● Renormalization Ice Mt Pisgah
WI4+ 19 ● Float like a butterfly(land like… Ice 3 pitches Mt Pisgah
WI4+ 42 ● Twenty Below Zero gully Ice 2 pitches Mt Pisgah
WI5 32 ● Glass Menagerie Ice 2 pitches Mt Pisgah
WI3-4 20 ● The Tablets Center Ice 2 pitches Mt Pisgah
WI5 PG13 7 ● Extensive Homology Ice 2 pitches Mt Pisgah
WI5-6 R 3 ● Moody Aunt Ruby Ice 2 pitches Mt Hor
WI6 4 ● Call of the Wild Ice 2 pitches Mt Pisgah