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Lake Tahoe

California

Description

The Lake Tahoe Basin and surrounding region covers a vast expanse of the northern Sierra Nevada and holds a lifetime of climbing, mostly on fine-grained, high-quality granite. Trad climbing is the name of the game here and notable/large areas include Donner Summit, Lover's Leap, Woodford's Canyon, and Calaveras Dome, among countless other "smaller" areas that are just as good. Although not necessarily a bolt clipper's paradise, there are a few concentrations of sport climbing, including Big Chief, the Emeralds, and Bowman Lake. Further, most of the major (and minor) trad areas host at least a smattering of sport routes, if not a fairly substantial number (e.g., Donner Summit). Boulders are literally everywhere in Tahoe and to even try to grasp the volume of problems, pick up any of the 4 (!) bouldering guides currently available for the region...

Much of the climbing in the Lake Tahoe area is at higher elevations (6000-9000'), and is covered with snow for a substantial portion of the year. As such, the large majority of crags are best in late spring/summer/fall, although it can depend on how wet the winter is. Fairly reliable winter climbing spots include Sugarloaf, the south-facing side of Woodford's, Auburn Quarry, and a handful of other small, south-facing crags scattered about. 

Getting There

By Road

From the Bay Area, head up Highway 80 to Sacramento, where you will either head up into the hills either on 80, 50, or 89, depending on where you're going.

From Reno, head up Highway 80 to go to North Lake destinations, or down highway 395 , and then West on highway 89 into South Lake Tahoe.

By Air

The nearest city with commercial flights is Reno. For some Tahoe areas, Sacramento's airport might be a viable second option. Each one still requires a drive into the mountains.

By Rail

The first intercontinental railroad in the U.S. went over Donner Summit; one version of this line went through the Snowshed next to the climbing wall of the same name there. Amtrak still runs a train over the Sierra in this area, which runs through Truckee once a day or so. It's not cheap or fast compared to other modern travel to the Tahoe area, but is scenic (though it only goes by Donner Lake north and out of sight of Lake Tahoe).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Soloing the All American Finger Crack. Couldn't ask for a better splitter
[Hide Photo] Soloing the All American Finger Crack. Couldn't ask for a better splitter
Photo: Kevin Takashi Smith.
[Hide Photo] Photo: Kevin Takashi Smith.
Hunting gator scenic
[Hide Photo] Hunting gator scenic
December sunset from just south of Sand Harbor. No photoshop! This is just how it came out on my camera- it was that incredibly beautiful.
[Hide Photo] December sunset from just south of Sand Harbor. No photoshop! This is just how it came out on my camera- it was that incredibly beautiful.
Desolation Wilderness.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Desolation Wilderness. Photo by Blitzo.
Trad climbs on the water at DL Bliss. Paddleboard (or boat or walk) in with awesome views and great climbing. Here's my buddy Trevor following up on the first climb we did. Called it "Blissful Banging" at 5.9. Check out the Bliss page for more info
[Hide Photo] Trad climbs on the water at DL Bliss. Paddleboard (or boat or walk) in with awesome views and great climbing. Here's my buddy Trevor following up on the first climb we did. Called it "Blis…
Speaks for itself<br>
<br>
January 2011
[Hide Photo] Speaks for itself January 2011
Oak Trees-Foothills.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Oak Trees-Foothills. Photo by Blitzo.
Brett making friends with the locals on Mt. Tallac summit
[Hide Photo] Brett making friends with the locals on Mt. Tallac summit
Tahoe Glass
[Hide Photo] Tahoe Glass
Foothill Sunset.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Foothill Sunset. Photo by Blitzo.
An Osprey perched high above Fallen leaf lake
[Hide Photo] An Osprey perched high above Fallen leaf lake

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Knowing nothing about the area... I'm going to be there in August. What are the best places to escape the summer heat? I'm mostly interested in bouldering, but as well I climb trad and sport. In regards to bouldering, I noticed 3 different bouldering guidebooks. Which one would be best for summer spots. Thanks! Jul 2, 2014
Carlos Garcia
Truckee, CA
[Hide Comment] I would check out the high country during summer. My favorite is Summit Lake area near Donner Pass. Bouldering Lake Tahoe-North/West covers that area. Dec 3, 2014
[Hide Comment] Just starting out as a climber and live in Chico, CA, this is some useful info for the Tahoe area! Not too far from me. Thanks for putting this together. I am going to share this article with my buddies on Soul id if you don't mind. I will be posting it here for your reference: soulid.me/id/Climbing Dec 2, 2016