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> Buttress of Cracks -…
Insomnia
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 4 from 101
votes
Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
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Arcy Farcy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Arcy Farcy Mantle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Bluebeard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Buccaneer, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Exposure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 |
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Double Exposure Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Double Trouble T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Frustration T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ham Sandwich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hernia - Direct Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hernia, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Insomnia T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Overexposed Variation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Pass Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pieces of Eight T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Pirate, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Swashbuckler T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sword of Damocles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Walk the Plank T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Winter Solstice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Pat Callis & Larry Reynolds, June 1967, FFA: Jim Erickson & Scott Stewart, March 1972 |
| Page Views: | 25,460 total · 122/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jan 20, 2006 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Climb 25 feet up Buttress Chimney, the wide crack between the Sunshine Face & Buttress of Cracks, and then enter a flared chimney (5.9) below a striking crack.
Wiggle up the chimney and then launch directly into the crux, which can be jammed straight-on or lie-backed depending upon your hand size or preference.
Higher the crack makes a jog left via a steep hand crack (5.10+) and finishes with some easy moves to a ledge with a bolted anchors.
- Rappel or make an easy down climb off the backside, which leads to a notch where you can pick up a trail leading back to the base.
Location
This classic crack is found on the left end of the Buttress of Cracks, just left of the classic Double Exposure arete, and facing towards the Sunshine Face.
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