All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Outback > Rock Hudson

Hot Rocks

Name: Hot Rocks
Rating: 3.8

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in Rock Hudson

L › R R › L A › Z

	Absolute Zero T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Doing That Scrapyard Thing T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Gem Nabors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Hot Rocks T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Ipecac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Kelvin and Hobbes T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Less than Zero TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Looney Tunes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Nereltne T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Rankine File T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Stand and Deliver (aka Spanish Bombs) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Wayne's New Tones T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	John Long, Richard Harrison and Ging Gingrich, February 1973 FFA: John Bachar, 1979
Page Views:	15,386 total · 61/month
Shared By:	C Miller on Jul 17, 2002
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

There are two starts to the climb - 1) climb the seam directly with no protection, or 2) climb past a bolt just right of the seam. Either way thin and delicate slab moves gain a stance where you can get some gear in. From here lieback and jam up a thin crack (crux) to a horizontal, after which the crack widens and enjoyable jamming past a steep bulge leads to the top. Descend by walking down the south shoulder (climber's right).

A true Josh classic with varied, interesting moves up a clean face.

This is one of the climbs that John Bachar used to routinely solo back in the late 70's/early 80's. Other routes regularly soloed were Left Ski Track (5.11a), More Monkey than Funky (5.11b) and Spider Line (5.11d).

Location

Hot Rocks is the masterpiece of this wall and climbs a line just right of center identified as a seam that higher widens and forms a crack. Just left of this route is the thin and technical Stand and Deliver (aka Spanish Bombs) while further left is the widening crack of Looney Tunes.