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Horseshoe Canyon Ranch

Arkansas > North-Central Arkansas

Description

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch (HCR) offers some of the finest sandstone in Arkansas with nearly 420 routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.14. The majority of the routes are fully bolted sport climbs, but there are also many fine trad routes and a plethora of good boulder problems. The cracks at the Ranch are some of the best in Arkansas and will challenge even the saltiest of crack masters.

Surreal sandstone climbing in a spectacular setting with all the amenities of a four-star dude ranch make this one of the most unique and enjoyable crags you'll ever visit.

The Buffalo River is on the other side of 74 hwy. Hit the BRT, a 40 mile hiking trail. Ponca offers rentals of kayak, canoe, and rafts, or bring your own and float the Buffalo - one of the only pristine rivers in a national park not crowded with houses and other nonsense. There are cliffs along the Buffalo that beg to be climbed, so bring your synthetic shoes.

Camping is $5 per night, climbing is $11 per day. Restrooms, sinks, and token showers were added in 2012, making this a great base for multi-day excursions. Cabins are also available on site for varying prices. You need to reserve these in advance.  

Sign in at the Trading Post when you pull in and check out the gear, grab some coffee, even scarf a burrito. HCR also offers shoe rentals.

DOGS NOT ALLOWED.

Getting There

HCR is located approximately 7.0 miles west of Jasper and 6.5 miles east of Ponca on the south side of State Highway 74. Jasper is approximately 25 miles south of Harrison and 65 miles north of Russellville on Scenic State Highway 7.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chili dog!!
[Hide Photo] Chili dog!!
Another one of Chili, well, chillin on the porch.
[Hide Photo] Another one of Chili, well, chillin on the porch.
Horse Shoe Timber Rattler
[Hide Photo] Horse Shoe Timber Rattler
Updated map of the Ranch (04/19/19). It needs help in the NW quadrant (Goat Cave down to Middle East). Help improve by commenting or texting me in MP.
[Hide Photo] Updated map of the Ranch (04/19/19). It needs help in the NW quadrant (Goat Cave down to Middle East). Help improve by commenting or texting me in MP.
Leaving the ranch after climbing 40 climbs in the North Forty for my 40th birthday.  HCR will always be a special place for me.
[Hide Photo] Leaving the ranch after climbing 40 climbs in the North Forty for my 40th birthday. HCR will always be a special place for me.
Really trying to "warm up."
[Hide Photo] Really trying to "warm up."
enough said.
[Hide Photo] enough said.
HCR Springtime climbing.  Pic by Lorraine Walsh
[Hide Photo] HCR Springtime climbing. Pic by Lorraine Walsh
Beautiful leaves in early November 2010
[Hide Photo] Beautiful leaves in early November 2010
Karen Elshout warming up near Crimp Scampi.  Photo by Thomas Diehl
[Hide Photo] Karen Elshout warming up near Crimp Scampi. Photo by Thomas Diehl
The idyllic Horseshoe Canyon Ranch.
[Hide Photo] The idyllic Horseshoe Canyon Ranch.
First Normal Form 5.9+
[Hide Photo] First Normal Form 5.9+

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This is one of the best places I have ever been to, to bring new climbers. TONS of easy and moderate climbs with forgiving rests and holds. Not too tall either. In addition there are classic 5.8's next to classic 5.12's so the experienced climber can belay the newbie, take a few steps and work a project.

Tip: Bring you own TP for the pit toilets and DON'T PET THE BIG DOGS! They have a job to do. Mar 30, 2010
Sean Ferrell
Estes Park, CO
[Hide Comment] Could someone tell me where the 'cracks that will test even the saltiest' are? Just Starboard List? Are there any (other) cracks here that are really good, above 5.10? Jan 28, 2011
Nate Moore
Burbank, CA
[Hide Comment] ferrells, Horseshoe doesn't really have any hard cracks. Classique and I Fought Piranhas are probably two of the hardest i can think of. If you want harder crack you will have to check out some other crags. Jan 30, 2011
Peter Dodge
Duluth, MN
[Hide Comment] What is the climbing like in February? Temps? Nov 27, 2011
ssimonson09
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] Peter,

February Temps can be decent depending on how things shake out and how late in February you go. It'll probably be getting up to the mid to upper 40's maybe almost the 50's in the day and at night it'll drop down to below freezing. Again, this really depends on the year though, I think the ice storm that ripped through there a few years ago was in late January early February, so it really just depends.

Generally speaking though HCR is a great winter destination as you can just chase the sun around the canyon for the best temps. Dec 14, 2011
Jason Young
Los Alamos, NM
[Hide Comment] This area is well worth the $5 fee. There are hundreds of routes on superb stone. The bolt jobs are excellent with bomber hardware. It looks like glue-ins might be the new standard for the area. The bouldering looks amazing, and there's tons of it too. The setting is pretty amazing too. It is a true ranch with horses, cattle, goats, pigs, dogs, and cowboys.

I was just there last week. The weather was unseasonably warm, but quite nice. We did see about a dozen ticks during the two days we climbed there though.

P.S. Chili is a sweet dog, and the people who run the place were very friendly!

Don't forget to check out the Buffalo River while your there. The cliffs we saw on the stretch between Steel Creek and Kyle's Landing were AMAZING (they looked like a mini Verdon). The fishing was good too. There are some lunker bass in there as well as some trout and a ton of crappie. Oh yeah, I saw a couple of good spots for some DWS also (the water was quite warm for a river)! Apr 8, 2012
Dan Cooksey
Pink Ford Thunderbird
[Hide Comment] Hey guys and gals.

looking to visit for the first week of March. Never been to the area and are fairly new to climbing(little over a year). We boulder 3 days a week and have pads, we also have ropes and usually set our own top ropes. My main question is, are there climbs with bolts that you can set a top rope without leading? neither of us have got into leading yet. Thanks for the info in advance. Jan 7, 2014
[Hide Comment] Dan, there are no climbs that you can set a top rope for (without leading, at least that I'm aware of) mainly because the crags are approached from below, and the land above is mostly owned by somebody else (I think). However, if you have never done any lead climbing, HCR is a fantastic place to get some practice in and feel very comfortable...There are numerous routes in the 5.6-8 range on huge holds that I have seen inexperienced climbers fly up. There is also a large boulder in the 40 with anchor bolts for practicing cleaning/rapping. If you're unfamiliar with the techniques, there are always lots of people on the weekend who are friendly and willing to teach a climber a thing or two. Jan 15, 2014
[Hide Comment] How is the weather for the summer? Is there a bad bug problem? Are there any good swimming holes nearby(creeks, rivers, lakes,etc.? Is there any free van camping nearby? Jun 23, 2014
[Hide Comment] @Siberia, you can occasionally find people in the middle of the week, but HCR's busy days are usually just the weekend, with some people climbing on Friday or Monday as well. I wouldn't count on it being too populated during the week.

@Alan Moles, weather for the summer is pretty typical for Arkansas summers - hot and humid. Shade is almost a requirement if you want to get on a climb and there are areas with plenty of it, but occasional cool weekends (i.e., under 85-90 highs) do happen. Bugs include ticks, chiggers, mosquitoes, and lots of other bugs that don't really do anything but annoy you. The Buffalo National River is 15 minutes away, with some DWS and good swimming. Closest free camping that is not secret is Sam's Throne, around 30-45 minutes away. You may be able to find some free camping along the Buffalo, but please remember that much of the land in this area is private. Aug 4, 2014
Luc Ried
Batesville, AR
[Hide Comment] Conditions in Arkansas are never really predictable, you may have a week with no rain, or you may have a week of nothing but rain. There are areas in horseshoe that you can climb if it does happen to rain, and I highly recommend a trip. December is the best month of the year for climbing here. Have a good trip and stay safe! Aug 21, 2016
[Hide Comment] Interesting - I was vaguely aware that Arkansas existed and now it seems it has good climbing!

Question to locals: would you drive 30 hours to get to that crag for about 7-10 days, if it wasn't that close to home? I'm from the eastern Canada. Usually go to Red River & the likes up east that are closer, but then it's always fun to discover new areas... Follow-up question: would you drive 30 hrs to go to Red River for that amount of time (or alternatively, what location would be awesome enough you drive 30 hrs to for 7-10 days of climbing)?

EDIT: mostly interested in sport, 11-12 maybe easy 13, perhaps easy trad now & then.... Dec 12, 2017
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
[Hide Comment] Not a local but a neighbor (from Nebraska) who has climbed a lot at the Ranch. Easily worth it. HCR is an amazing and unique crag. For single pitch sport, it doesn't get much better. Dec 13, 2017
Brian Chiu
Sugar Land, TX
[Hide Comment] Will a 65m be long enough to climb pretty much everything? Oct 1, 2018
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
[Hide Comment] 65m will be long enough. Oct 3, 2018
Jon Mitchell
Round Rock, TX
[Hide Comment] A complete public list of HCR trad and sport routes can be found in the 24HHH planner located here: horseshoehellapp.com/beta/p…

Based on my review, MP is missing 80+ HCR sport and trad routes. Of course, 80 out of 500 is not so bad. But, if you know them, please add missing routes.

I also exported the 24HHH data, put it in a spreadsheet and marked the missing routes in bold. You can find that file here: dropbox.com/s/hm33h0yvsw8yz…

Some areas are well documented in MP, some not. So you know what to trust in MP, here is a count of missing routes per wall: Crackhouse Alley 8, Confederate Cracks 19, Walls of Moria 6, Black Slabs 10 (BS does not exist as a sub area in MP and routes are incorrectly published under CC), The Arcade 6, Street Fighter 2, The North Forty 5 (3 in The Corridor and 2 on Circus Wall), Goat Cave 2, Mullet Buttress 7, Land of the Lost 3, Middle East 5 (3 in NSA and 2 in RC), Roman Wall 3, Cliffs of Insanity 2, and The Far East 4. Apr 19, 2019
Jesse Wilson
Rock Island IL
[Hide Comment] im glad they cleaned up brush and excess trees. 2019. sams throne is free but not many sport routes. il gladly spend the $10 for cleaned up areas to climb. plenty to climb. very pretty place to. Nov 18, 2019
Connor Brass
Kansas City, MO
[Hide Comment] Any good chimney pitches to be found at HCR? Apr 3, 2020
Joshua Jackson
Branson, MO
[Hide Comment] Alan Nguyen,
Your question is almost a year old, but since no one else responded...
I have a 75' rope (back when Sterling sold cut-offs) and there are a lot of routes that I can climb (40' and less).
I have a To-Do list of over 50 sport routes that are 5.9 and lower and 40' and lower.
If you climb higher difficulty, you could probably add another 10-20 routes.
After 10+ years of climbing, I finally got a longer rope (50m) so that I could do the many 60-70' routes.
I don't know of anything on the ranch that needs a 60 or 70m rope (unless you've already cut the ends off a couple times).
JJ Aug 20, 2020
Kevin Crittenden
Saint Louis, MO
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know if you can take a conversion van there? I’ve been to HCR twice in my suv and remember the trailhead having one steep section and another steep part to access the campground. We just bought a Promaster and I’m curious if anyone’s had issues taking their van out there. Thanks! Mar 22, 2021
Jesse Ivers
Farmington, AR
[Hide Comment] @Keven Crittenden
I don't own a vehicle anything like yours, so take this with a grain of salt: I think you should be fine. The majority of the entry road is super chill, in fact, I saw them redoing it last time I was out. The only parts that can get tricky are after the trading post and those are nothing crazy. I think you'd be fine even there, if you were just a little careful. And worst case scenario, you just can't park quite as close to the north 40 trailhead. I basing this on my experience driving puny, old 2WD sedans and hatchbacks over the years and never having much issue at all. Mar 22, 2021
Jay Harrell
Atlanta, GA
[Hide Comment] We've taken a FWD minivan to HCR several times with no problem. Just drive slow on the rough parts. May 4, 2021
Cris Strong
Austin, TX
[Hide Comment] We are looking to visit HSC in late Sept. I've heard the camping is trashy. Is this true, and are there any other recommendations for camping or cabins nearby? Thanks! Jul 25, 2021
JD Borgeson
Little Rock, AR
[Hide Comment] The camping is not trashy... quite the opposite. it can get crowded though. They have cabins on site. there are other cabins around the buffalo. Jul 27, 2021
yevquest
Southeast,US
[Hide Comment] What's the season? Will it be too hot in May? Crowded or Dead? Looking to boulder and climb route here and around Cowell. Feb 12, 2022
Lukas Steinbock
Boulder
[Hide Comment] fun beta video: youtube.com/watch?v=sX0QzWo… Mar 24, 2022
[Hide Comment] How crowded is Horseshoe canyon ranch during weekdays in november? Is it a zoo and hard to get on routes or less so? Oct 15, 2022
[Hide Comment] HCR will always be a special place to me. From the routes to the camping and staff and just a very positive vibe. It stinks ya gotta pay to climb an camp but we gotta understand it goes towards them keep this beautiful place safe an open.

Not a ton of hard options here but there are some very aesthetically pleasing 12’s, a few 13’s where you’ll earn the grade an of course sharmas 14a. If you want to have some hard hard routes and or like to climb trad hit Sams throne area for a day. There are some super hard and beautiful sport an trad climbs around. Oct 30, 2022