Great White Headwall. This is not the BC route. It is harder. But looks way cool.

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Great White Headwall. This is not the BC route. It is harder. But looks way cool.

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launching off

Peter Cole at the top of the B-C/South Howser Tower, July 1979 - photo by Dennis Ellsohn

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4.9 from 15 votes

Steph Abegg

Aug 1, 2016

“Great White Headwall. This is not the BC route. It is harder. But looks way cool.”

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Nearby Photos

South Howser from the approach to the Beckey-Chouinard

What could be better than getting Fred's blessing before hiking in to climb South Howser?

Route Overlay Beckey-Chouinard.

"Glaciers and Forrest Fire" Starting the raps on a beautiful August evening. Photo credit Evan Ludmer

A long walk awaited us that night. We were camped at a small tarn above Cobalt Lake. Took about three hours to get there. July 1979

Tim and Grant nearing the top

On the great white headwall.

The dihedral on the lower part of the BC, with the headwall above.

launching off

Great White Headwall. This is not the BC route. It is harder. But looks way cool.

Peter Cole at the top of the B-C/South Howser Tower, July 1979 - photo by Dennis Ellsohn

A rimed up view of the route after a four day storm. July 1979

A group working the head wall cracks just above the bivy ledge. Not sure what they go at?
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August 2, 2017

From the summit looking North West during sunset

Erik & Felix super stoked to be on the summit of South Howser Tower.

Perspectives<br>

Tension traverse (or 5.10 free) at start of Pitch 15.

Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.

Bivy site below Great White Headwall.

Dennis Ellsohn jugging snowy iced up cracks on day 2. July 1979

Looking up from the base of the rap route.

Samuel somewhere on the slabby, White Headwall

Starting up Pitch 11.

Harz on the tricky traverse above the headwall.

Can use these pins for the tension traverse at start of Pitch 15.

The first pitch of the Great White Headwall climbs a short 5.10 offwidth/fist crack, then up these steep 5.9 cracks to the belay

Pitch 8.

The rap route puts you on flat glacier.

Pitch 14.

The awesome corner of Pitches 6-7.

Pitch 5.

On the rap route. With the wind and the lower angle of the first half of the rappel route, we decided to rap the first half with a single 70 rather than double ropes. The basic idea for Rappels 1-3 is to stay on the ridge and don't wander towards North Howser.

Pitch 10. The right-hand crack is a bit easier.

Sunset on the big bivy ledge below the headwall.

Beckey-Chouinard, South Howser<br>
Photo by Mtn. Proj. contributor Timmy! Tormey

Partial solar eclipse taken through a pair of very sweaty cardboard eclipse glasses from the top of Pitch 9.

Rap route off S. Howser Tower, from sign hanging in Kain Hut.

Bivy site below Great White Headwall.

At the split boulders which mark the start of the roped climbing.

On the summit. A pair of rap bolts is just around the block Jon (in orange) is standing at in the photo.

Starting up the headwall. When we climbed the route the next chimney section was the crux, as it was swamped with snow and ice! Full value fun!

Pitch 4.

Pitch 13.

Pitch 2.

Pitch 12.

Pitch 12. Squeeze above.

Pitch 12.

Pitch 11 up Great White Headwall.

Glenn T. follows the second pitch of the BC, which climbs this 5.7 corner crack

Approaching the base of the ridge.

Dennis Ellsohn at the bivy in July 1979

Start of Pitch 6.

First rappel at the top of the gully on pitch 15.

Me at the rap station after the crux pitch

The first pitch of the Great White Headwall

At the Pigeon-Howser Col looking down into East Creek Basin.

Pitch 3.

Nate during our Patagonian conditions ascent. The chimneys on P12 were completely iced over so we opted for the cracks out left.

At the top of Pitch 15, make a 20m rappel to the right to easier blocky terrain.